Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,


I have been reading around for a while to try and figure out my next mods.


I like something around 500bhp from fly which i think would be around 400 at wheel, right ?


I don't want to go forge or change cams at this stage .


I have seen gt35,30,28 and number of others but not sure what is best for me .


everyone has a different opinion reading around . what would you get and what is the max power from the turbo at what psi ?


I think gt30 is low mount which is good but gt35 or other are high mount and if i was to run gt 35 , I think it will be very lazy as I will be running it at a very low boost , right ?


I think minimum mod to get to 500 bhp is :


550 or above injectors

bigger intercooler

ecu ( link 4)

turbo .


and possibly manifold if it is not straight bolt on as most people say gt30 is .


am i right ?can i expect safe 500bhp from the car with the above cost and mod ?


if I was to do this in stages and buy the turbo and do no remap but run it at low boost , will it work ?


many thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456224-rb25det-turbo-choices/
Share on other sites

That's what the info is though isn't it?. What people think and have experienced is all over the forum.

You are asking for it to be laid out for you to make it easier for you. Which is spoon feeding.

How did you read for 5 hours and not figure out that an rb25 can easily make that power, that pretty much everyone talks kW, that Hypergear high flows bolt straight on, that a gt35 will be a lag monster etc.....?

You will get heaps of different answers, time to learn and make your own decisions.

You did say you and found lots of dif opinions, so do you expect anything dif from a new thread asking the same thing???

  • Like 1

Here ya go, this should get you started, be warned it may take you more than 5hrs of research to learn all thats needed.

Then again maybe not, it all comes down to you.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=turbo+choice+rb25+sau&rlz=1CDGOYI_enAU590AU590&oq=turbo+choice+rb25+sau&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome-mobile&espv=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en-US#q=turbo+choice+rb25+sau+site:www.sau.com.au&hl=en-US

OK. Even though you don't need assurance, here goes.

You can do it. You can do a good job if you out your mind to it. I believe in your abilities. You're really good at cars. Never give up. Don't stop believing. Keep on being you, you are wonderful.

For someone with limited funds you sure have alot of funds to spend, from your recent threads. Anyway you're asking what turbo's best for you? gtx3076 is what you want. And i mean that in a medical sense.

Trust me, i'm a doctor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia body...
    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
×
×
  • Create New...