Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts



My latest multi meter was run over by a Ute months back and is now starting to tell lies. Might order a newbie tomorrow
Every time I go to contract power/mtu/cat/Detroit/speno rail there are blokes running with fluke meters. The bro swears by them.
3 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

Anyone used any panel and paint shops for a complete glass out panel off respray they have had a good experience with? 

Vulcan panel and paint in canninton would be my option. Depends on where u are and what u wanna spend!

8 minutes ago, t_revz said:

 


My latest multi meter was run over by a Ute months back and is now starting to tell lies. Might order a newbie tomorrow

 

Did this to my snapon one a last year, didnt work after that.... snapon wouldnt warrant it either ?

Every time I go to contract power/mtu/cat/Detroit/speno rail there are blokes running with fluke meters. The bro swears by them.


Flukes are good, but so are many cheaper options. I’ve had 2 flukes that both got run over, a dick Smith jobbie that still works well, cabac clamp meter that’s still good and just about had enough of my sidchrome meter.

Cat meters are ok but like many meters they start to lie before the battery warning comes up
  • Like 1


Flukes are good, but so are many cheaper options. I’ve had 2 flukes that both got run over, a dick Smith jobbie that still works well, cabac clamp meter that’s still good and just about had enough of my sidchrome meter.

Cat meters are ok but like many meters they start to lie before the battery warning comes up
I just bought a sp tools 1/2" mini rattle gun and 1/2" air ratchet and wish I hadn't. Should have gone the Ingersoll rand. But very expensive. :-( the sp's look like a re-baged shinano. I only got 2 yrs from the last sp 1/2" ratchet. Boss replaced it for free because I was pissed off. I just bought a full set of gear wrench metric and imperial ratcheting spanners and they are sweet. I also bought a full set of gear wrench long combination spanners metric and imperial which kick ass. Compared to all my old sidcrome stuff. Going out at cost from beyond tools in Malaga. Doing more fitting than fabrication these days. Shame I'm the only person in the shop with the correct tools. It's annoying.
12 hours ago, t_revz said:


O-rings you say?

Which ones?

OK, so you have these bad boys running through the firewall

peugeot-205-1.6-1.9-gti-xs-heater-matrix

which connects to the heater matrix as thus 

 

317474A.jpg

 

and if you notice the 2 black clips halfway between the firewall hard tube, and the heater matrix, you get to these suspect little f**kers

s-l300.jpg

 

and these are the issue (I suspect)

they are located in the drivers footwell, and I am pretty sure they will be accessible just by dropping the bottom off the dash (and maybe yoink the shifter) but given I cant get into the footwell to eyeball any of this, its all purely academic at this stage. It might be a shat heater anyway :/

OK, so you have these bad boys running through the firewall
peugeot-205-1.6-1.9-gti-xs-heater-matrix-water-pipes-alloy-with-clamps-296-p.jpg&key=6403632e1cf8687cb68b95cb44038161ddfb869e0adc845cfcc30c2cb790d7ac
which connects to the heater matrix as thus 
 
317474A.jpg&key=daac6438defd1859ee441f59ce27cb09012791bbf7045b7a8f64091934c6a1d6
 
and if you notice the 2 black clips halfway between the firewall hard tube, and the heater matrix, you get to these suspect little f**kers
s-l300.jpg&key=165a51c40b6fd0734e096ce670c90f1a606f2d9cfc0cc02053d2eff3203bc178
 
and these are the issue (I suspect)
they are located in the drivers footwell, and I am pretty sure they will be accessible just by dropping the bottom off the dash (and maybe yoink the shifter) but given I cant get into the footwell to eyeball any of this, its all purely academic at this stage. It might be a shat heater anyway [emoji32]


So many o-rings

What stupid Kent’s
Every time I go to contract power/mtu/cat/Detroit/speno rail there are blokes running with fluke meters. The bro swears by them.


If you can stomach the brand name tax that comes on the fluke gear. You rarely get a shit product from them.
  • Like 1
I know, right?
Plus, if it is the o-rings, it means my u-beaut nulon coolant is a POS 
Do you have a air compressor at home? You could test the send/return from after the poxy o ring arrangement to see if it holds pressure before pulling it out. Which is a prick of a job. You would think after only 100,000 the core would be fine if it's always run inhibitor/coolant? You could also run some soap suds water through it under pressure with the tubes attached to check the poxy o ring arrangement?
Do you have a air compressor at home? You could test the send/return from after the poxy o ring arrangement to see if it holds pressure before pulling it out. Which is a prick of a job. You would think after only 100,000 the core would be fine if it's always run inhibitor/coolant? You could also run some soap suds water through it under pressure with the tubes attached to check the poxy o ring arrangement?


Quick google looks like focus are notorious for leaking heaters
  • Like 1


If you can stomach the brand name tax that comes on the fluke gear. You rarely get a shit product from them.


Agreed but in the conditions I work in I’d rather 3 cheaper meters to a same level fluke. I work in the rain, mud, grease and whatever else is thrown at me.
  • Like 1
On 14/03/2018 at 7:02 PM, Stinky Rooster said:

I know, right?

Plus, if it is the o-rings, it means my u-beaut nulon coolant is a POS 

Has it ever had a coolant flush? Different coolant colours have different additives to stop issues like this

  • Like 1

I've been using Nulon Coolant for over a decade in Multiple performance cars (Red or Green) with no issues what so ever. Top coolant in my opinion :1311_thumbsup_tone2:

Currently use the Green in my 32 GTR and Red in my R8 Maloo.

Edited by Anonymouse
Update


Quick google looks like focus are notorious for leaking heaters
If you need parts my mate is a service manager at Ford. If you can't be assed chewing out the stuffed old back I could put a good word in for you to get it fixed:-) p.m.
Spotted a sweet looking yellow r34 on the Tonkin today. Gave you a thumbs up if you are on here ha ha
Hey dude hows the gt-r running? Looks like a good investment the 33's are starting to sky-rocket bit like 32's and 34's. Except it looks heaps better[emoji41]



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...