Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

raced the BMW 320 Turbo today in Project Cars, man such a fun car. crank up the boost to 2.6 bar and let it loose. got the ol' skool no-power-till-6grand kind of turbo.

(turn up the quality)

love a bit of dirty overtaking ;)

They are redesigned and modified specifically to suit a particular Sim and are easily added as long as you understand the directory structure and follow the Info Text file.

I can get on TS if you like to give you a hand with rFactor, GSC, Assetto still learning what makes PC tick .

  • 4 weeks later...

got lucky, bought a new gaming laptop and reloaded PCars only to learn that the savegame does not travel to the steam cloudstore.
luckily for me i removed my old ssd cdrive and could recover the folder. there was no way i was doing the damn 24hour again.

Built with a budget but I suspect you might struggle with higher end Racing simulations such as Assetto Corsa and Project Cars unfortunately.

What Graphics Card ?? I know that there is on board graphics but that is for the Office for good gaming experience you have no choice but to invest in a good PCIe Graphics card.

Some AMD Chips run pretty hot and for the cost of it I'd have gone to something like a Corsair H80 or H100 Liquid Cooling, draw cool Air into the case near the floor and channel this through the case to ventilate it and remove as much heat as possible by air flow, IMHO there is no substitute for Airflow

The HDD you have selected is adequate for your needs but a relatively slow one at that even though it is SATA 3, and your only using one HDD ???

IMHO you should be using no less than 3 HDD's or more for general programs etc and an SSD for the OS .

Basic layout might be something like that listed below

1 OS should be on a 60Gb/120Gb SSD and ONLY the OS

This requires installing the OS and then editing the registry externally in Safe Mode so the default location of your User folder and the default location for your Program Files is on other drive's and NOT C:\ .

2 All other programs are installed something as follows

D;\ For your User Folder and Documents
E;\ For general Programs and Applications
F:\ Being a 500Gb 10,000 rpm Gaming drive so you have some decent speed of I/O .

G:\ Being a 500Gb 10,000 rpm Gaming drive so you have some decent speed of I/O.
H:\ A Caddy for removable Large HDD used for creating Images or Backup's of you installations.

( The reason behind divorcing the OS from everything else is 1 it is faster and 2 it greatly protects your installed programs from loss of data should your OS fail and eventually it will.
So if you back up your C:\ ie your OS regularly to an internal caddy removable backup drive the heart of your system can be protected with minimal loss of Data )


HDD Caddy fitted to the system and you insert a backup drive and image your C:\ and D:\
Storage and backup space is cheap,

What OS ? 32 or 64 Bit you didn't say and IMHO I'd not install Windows 8 for gaming. it is NOT flexible enough to allow custom installations and designed primarily as a Multimedia platform.


Cheers for reply yea was more a budget work computer just wanted to know if it would run games.

Yes the ssd was for OS, no graphics card atm but if the rest isn't good enough I won't even bother and just at a later date upgrade it or build another I guess. But sounds like almost everything must be changed for it

Not necessarily , but that's how I build my systems , and why I separate the OS from everything else and make images of the OS ,

That system would likely run OK for rFactor and Game stock car but I think you would need a high end graphics card for serious gaming simply due to the complexity of the graphics texturing but more so because the computing power is done by a GPU Graphics Processor Unit freeing up a LOT of CPU cycle time to run the mathematical calculations needed.

Suck it and see would be my advice as many games have a trial, to test your machine's capability.

raced the BMW 320 Turbo today in Project Cars, man such a fun car. crank up the boost to 2.6 bar and let it loose. got the ol' skool no-power-till-6grand kind of turbo.

(turn up the quality)

The BAC mono is another fun car to drive, can hold some good power slides.

Edited by HR31_RB20DET
  • 2 weeks later...

which sim has the biggest list of aussie tracks? Prefer scanned tracks but mods will do also.

It would be hard to beat rfactor for sheer number. If you can get past the ageing graphics its still one of the best sims, especially with the realfeel FFB plugin.

Exactly. I listed 20 aussie tracks off the top of my head - I'm sure there are more that I forgot about. Ageing graphics don't bother me. I can see where I'm going, can use the car's gauges to give me vital info, personally I don't need any more bling than that (and my Dell laptop won't run anything much more graphics intensive than that anyway)

Realfeel is good, but takes a bit of setting up to get it feeling right

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...