Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

So at the moment i am currently building my first 25/30, really my first engine and i'm needing some advice.

i have gone with cp pistons, Manley rods, i will be running gtr n1 oil pump fitted with oil collar. with a cometic head gasket, all arp studs and acl king bearings.

compression is sitting low 8 cant remember exact 8.1. head is rb25det as well

so my question would be, what oil restrictors are people running?if any at all? needing to know this asap

and i'm also looking at changing valve springs and maybe cams, im wanting to keep the hydraulic lifters, unless someone can convince me otherwise.

what cams and valve springs should i run or could i just run standard cams and different valve springs with higher seat pressure?

overall looking to get anywhere from 500-650 hp

Thanks :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456996-rb2530-build-help/
Share on other sites

I ran 2 x 1.3mm restrictors in mine.

I still had VCT and did the internal mod so I was robbing oil from the lifters to run it.

Not sure how effective that was because when the VCT is on, it is shut and holding pressure on the cam pulley so that it can advance. When it de-activates, it opens up and releases the pressure which means it is flowing and adding to the amount of oil in the head ( I'm not 100% sure because I don't have a head here to inspect and I'm not sure if the VCT had it's own drain. I am pretty sure it uses the head drains)

Anyway, If I did it again I would look at using 1.2mm feeds. EVen they seem to be big enough from what I have heard.

You need more compression...9:1 or better. I used 2 x 1.0mm restrictors.Depending on the head you are using you may benefit from some higher lift cams without excessive overlap (a custom grind) and retaining VCT. Read the latter part of the oil control thread re venting your sump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...