Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I am currently looking at purchasing an EBC, but am unsure on which one is better. The two I have been looking at are the GFB GeForce II and the Turbosmart Eboost2. Both are relatively cheap, which is what I am after. But just wonder if anyone has one of these and has any advice/tips about either.
From my own research they seem to do the exact same thing, but the GFB one is fair bit cheaper, and I like how it will display the peak boost after for a short time

Also may be a stupid question, but i have a normal boost gauge on my A pillar at the moment, would the eboost be a simple swap in for it or would there be more wires/pipes needed? or will it even fit in the pillar?

Sorry for the noobish question, only still pretty new to forced induction.

Thanks in advance :)

I have used both that you mentioned and prefer the GFB unit. But it's a personal thing. Performance is identical

Both are awkward to mount in the cabin but the GFB has a nicer display so you can delete a boost gauge. Although the led lighting stands out if you get pulled over, it just might draw attention more than the eboost.

In conclusion: toss a coin

I used the gfb unit on my 180 and it was great, easy to use touch screen handled boost up to 50psi and very stable, could change colour to suit cabin gauges and the best thing is that it had an over boost function that cuts all boost at a pre set level so to prevent any spikes. Got mine for $300 a lot cheaper than others on the market, would defiantly buy again!

  • 4 years later...

The tuner I spoke to seems to think the eboost2 is better since you can set boost by rpm, so if you have a small turbo that’s dropping boost higher in the rev range you can set the boost higher as the revs climb. 

He seems to the the GFB controller doesn’t have this function. 

I see it it does have sensitivity, but apparently it’s not the same. Is that true and the eboost2 is better?

I do find with my Gforce it will peak at about 9 or 10psi then drop back to 7psi even though the target is 9psi but I think the turbo will run up to about 18psi 

 

 

If I had to pick, I'll get the GFB as it's piss easy to use. Plus you can change the colour of the controller to suit your interior.

I've used an eBoost once and didn't find it very intuitive. At the end of the day, these things do the same thing with the same type of solenoid, yes the eBoost will allow you to boost by RPM however does your car/setup even need it? 

So save your money, get the GFB and spend the change on your missus.

These days I would expect most ECUs do at least as good a job, have the ability to set other rules to decide how to manage boost control, and various inputs can be used if "on the fly" adjustments are needed - so really I'd not bother with any of them, or upgrade engine management and profit from having generally much better all kinds of stuff as a result.

23 minutes ago, Lithium said:

These days I would expect most ECUs do at least as good a job, have the ability to set other rules to decide how to manage boost control, and various inputs can be used if "on the fly" adjustments are needed - so really I'd not bother with any of them, or upgrade engine management and profit from having generally much better all kinds of stuff as a result.

I believe he is running a PowerFC - so running this on a near stock setup provides much better value for money.

Side note, the amount of people who splash out on EVC5/6 and don't bother connecting up vehicle speed and RPM input but yet insist on getting the best EBC because it controls boost well.

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I believe he is running a PowerFC - so running this on a near stock setup provides much better value for money.

Side note, the amount of people who splash out on EVC5/6 and don't bother connecting up vehicle speed and RPM input but yet insist on getting the best EBC because it controls boost well.

Oh yeah, for sure... for the OP that definitely makes sense - but given the original question was asked 4 years ago so I was talking more generally :)

26 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Oh yeah, for sure... for the OP that definitely makes sense - but given the original question was asked 4 years ago so I was talking more generally :)

Sorry was referring to Ben's more recent question about the EBCs which was asked on Thursday.

OP probably had Microtech with pots you adjusted with a flat head screw driver using visual cues to determine AFRs.

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks all, will stick with the gforce 2 then. 

Strange though, if I bring it on boost from say 2000 rpm in 4th I’ll get about 6psi from about 2000rpm, but it will stay there and slowly increase to about 8 or 9psi around 5000rpm. 

Alternatively if I go full throttle in 1st gear I’ll get around 12.5psi around 5000rpm. 

Its just strange that the boost isn’t that consistent? I would have thought with this small turbo, it should have been closer to the 12 psi mark from about 3k easy.

I’m thinking of trying out my old turbotech to see if that’s better? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...