Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I am currently looking at purchasing an EBC, but am unsure on which one is better. The two I have been looking at are the GFB GeForce II and the Turbosmart Eboost2. Both are relatively cheap, which is what I am after. But just wonder if anyone has one of these and has any advice/tips about either.
From my own research they seem to do the exact same thing, but the GFB one is fair bit cheaper, and I like how it will display the peak boost after for a short time

Also may be a stupid question, but i have a normal boost gauge on my A pillar at the moment, would the eboost be a simple swap in for it or would there be more wires/pipes needed? or will it even fit in the pillar?

Sorry for the noobish question, only still pretty new to forced induction.

Thanks in advance :)

I have used both that you mentioned and prefer the GFB unit. But it's a personal thing. Performance is identical

Both are awkward to mount in the cabin but the GFB has a nicer display so you can delete a boost gauge. Although the led lighting stands out if you get pulled over, it just might draw attention more than the eboost.

In conclusion: toss a coin

I used the gfb unit on my 180 and it was great, easy to use touch screen handled boost up to 50psi and very stable, could change colour to suit cabin gauges and the best thing is that it had an over boost function that cuts all boost at a pre set level so to prevent any spikes. Got mine for $300 a lot cheaper than others on the market, would defiantly buy again!

  • 4 years later...

The tuner I spoke to seems to think the eboost2 is better since you can set boost by rpm, so if you have a small turbo that’s dropping boost higher in the rev range you can set the boost higher as the revs climb. 

He seems to the the GFB controller doesn’t have this function. 

I see it it does have sensitivity, but apparently it’s not the same. Is that true and the eboost2 is better?

I do find with my Gforce it will peak at about 9 or 10psi then drop back to 7psi even though the target is 9psi but I think the turbo will run up to about 18psi 

 

 

If I had to pick, I'll get the GFB as it's piss easy to use. Plus you can change the colour of the controller to suit your interior.

I've used an eBoost once and didn't find it very intuitive. At the end of the day, these things do the same thing with the same type of solenoid, yes the eBoost will allow you to boost by RPM however does your car/setup even need it? 

So save your money, get the GFB and spend the change on your missus.

These days I would expect most ECUs do at least as good a job, have the ability to set other rules to decide how to manage boost control, and various inputs can be used if "on the fly" adjustments are needed - so really I'd not bother with any of them, or upgrade engine management and profit from having generally much better all kinds of stuff as a result.

23 minutes ago, Lithium said:

These days I would expect most ECUs do at least as good a job, have the ability to set other rules to decide how to manage boost control, and various inputs can be used if "on the fly" adjustments are needed - so really I'd not bother with any of them, or upgrade engine management and profit from having generally much better all kinds of stuff as a result.

I believe he is running a PowerFC - so running this on a near stock setup provides much better value for money.

Side note, the amount of people who splash out on EVC5/6 and don't bother connecting up vehicle speed and RPM input but yet insist on getting the best EBC because it controls boost well.

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I believe he is running a PowerFC - so running this on a near stock setup provides much better value for money.

Side note, the amount of people who splash out on EVC5/6 and don't bother connecting up vehicle speed and RPM input but yet insist on getting the best EBC because it controls boost well.

Oh yeah, for sure... for the OP that definitely makes sense - but given the original question was asked 4 years ago so I was talking more generally :)

26 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Oh yeah, for sure... for the OP that definitely makes sense - but given the original question was asked 4 years ago so I was talking more generally :)

Sorry was referring to Ben's more recent question about the EBCs which was asked on Thursday.

OP probably had Microtech with pots you adjusted with a flat head screw driver using visual cues to determine AFRs.

  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks all, will stick with the gforce 2 then. 

Strange though, if I bring it on boost from say 2000 rpm in 4th I’ll get about 6psi from about 2000rpm, but it will stay there and slowly increase to about 8 or 9psi around 5000rpm. 

Alternatively if I go full throttle in 1st gear I’ll get around 12.5psi around 5000rpm. 

Its just strange that the boost isn’t that consistent? I would have thought with this small turbo, it should have been closer to the 12 psi mark from about 3k easy.

I’m thinking of trying out my old turbotech to see if that’s better? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...