Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I changed all my globes (brakes, reverse, indicator) to Cree led last night. Everything was working like normal till I changed the front 2 indicator and it started blinking really fast.

I understand that it is due to the lower wattage of the LED that causes the car to think a globe is blown or wrong wattage. Hence the rapid blinking.

Anybody has a fix for this? Everything works fine. Just blinks fast.

Please do share.

Pic of the rear with all the LED installed.

post-130368-14332845395578_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457155-r32-gtr-indicators-flashing-fast/
Share on other sites

It's the resistance change that throws regular flashers off. Some orange LEDs comes with resistors that you put in line (or can either add your own or change the relay) to add the 'load' to stop hyperflashing.

So I can purchase the relay that is shared above and replace the stock relay.

Ok I'm going to go with that. Cross fingers. All ok.

Thanks for the help!

Cheers!

Yeah. But they work pretty ok. Lol is so bright. It doesn't make a difference.

Also doesn't have heat. So can point anyway not worried of heat melting plastic. And it is bright enough. Much brighter than normal globes.

Yeah I know. I was kind of disappointed when I opened the reverse lights. But when I put it on and engaged the reverse. It was definitely much brighter than the originals. So I was happy again. Haha

Yep that relay should be fine.

Those projector style LEDs would be good for reverse, as you want the light projected outwards (to see). For the turn and brakes, I'd rather have something that fires sidewards/backwards so light is reflected off the housing rather than projected outwards (to be seen).

Something like this. Will have to figure out which ones will work best in the housings (Philips make a few different styles now).

But hey, that's just me.

Des, got some more shots of your light output? Looks pretty great.

  • Like 1

Yep that relay should be fine.

Those projector style LEDs would be good for reverse, as you want the light projected outwards (to see). For the turn and brakes, I'd rather have something that fires sidewards/backwards so light is reflected off the housing rather than projected outwards (to be seen).

Something like this. Will have to figure out which ones will work best in the housings (Philips make a few different styles now).

But hey, that's just me.

Des, got some more shots of your light output? Looks pretty great.

post-130368-14333228647424_thumb.jpgpost-130368-14333228781001_thumb.jpg

Let me know what other angles you want me to take. I'll get them.

Currently with these reverse lights. It lights up the whole garage. Lol

FYI: You can get a flasher relay from super cheap or autobarn that is non load dependant and will work with any lights. I have all LED and one of these flashers. Just needed to make an adapter harness from the original plug as the flasher relay base isnt the same

Hi guys,

I am hoping someone can help me. 1993 Nissan r32 GTR both front indicators on with headlights. Indicators work as normal but as soon as the indicator self cancels both indicators come back on. Any ideas? Indicator stalk or headlight switch?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...