Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VB cans work, bed in easily. I tried Four XXXX but got all crossed up and ended up in the pissed n' broke/piston broke club!!!!

Real answer - It depends on your power goals vs your budget. Standard takes more of a hammering than we all thought they would. Then theres plenty of aftermarket and none have a bad reputation, as somebody said its not the product its the build you get that is the defining limit.

Sort of good point. The reason I went with Tomei pistons is because I talked to someone that put 100k (over 10years) on an engine with them - had some track work too.

He had standard rods with tomei bolts. Rod ended up giving up.

So when i looked into them they seemed like the best option for a RB26. So far 12,000km on with them. Hopefully another 80+ to go.

I reckon anything Jap, 9 times out of 10 would have to be the best or close to it, they usually make/build as we know, great engines , so makes sense they will deliver an outstanding piston ( Tomei ) to put in there own designed/built engines.. :ph34r:

Edited by AngryRB

I reckon anything Jap, 9 times out of 10 would have to be the best or close to it, they usually make/build as we know, great engines , so makes sense they will deliver an outstanding piston ( Tomei ) to put in there own designed/built engines.. :ph34r:

INB4 piggaz gets here and starts talking about jap cams and valve springs.

Edited by iruvyouskyrine

Here is a story.

Once upon a time.....

There is a bloke in Victoria from Pacific Engine Parts who supplied the piston rings Fred Gibson used for the Group A GTR's. Knows a thing or two he does. If you want a good piston get good rings and built the motor properly. We do good engineering in Australia too, you know. Or atleast did before the Chinese, the mining boom and the wrong headed notion that if it is from overseas it must be better destroyed all our manufacturing industries.

Oi how shit are those jap springs and cams!

Seriously though, they re shit

I'm not disagreeing haha, I just know he won't stand for someone saying how good tomei type b poncams are and the quality of Japanese valve springs. Really gets his goat :P

He isn't the only one with the same story, but basically it goes along the lines of fitted Japanese valve springs (tomei in mine, hks in his) neither had enough seat pressure and caused miss fires in his due to float, mine were checked before being fitted, both replaced with super tech and now fine

The real answer is..if you have to ask on a forum, you probally don;t need them...maybe a bit harsh..but true

cheers

darren

So researching and checking ask your facts before pulling the trigger means you don't need them?

Guess all the cheque book racers who get 1000hp plus built lambos and the likes don't actual need after market pistons in that case?

Such a stupid logic some people have, not like I asked do I need after market pistons for 300+kw or something.

He isn't the only one with the same story, but basically it goes along the lines of fitted Japanese valve springs (tomei in mine, hks in his) neither had enough seat pressure and caused miss fires in his due to float, mine were checked before being fitted, both replaced with super tech and now fine

one of my tomei springs broke and wrecked my engine :(

Further make this a discussion about valve trains*

Not sure if true, but ive heard that valve springs can be damaged if motor is flogged cold? I cant imagine a mechanic in Japan working for Mines, to say no no no, don't use tomei, use only supertech!! lol... just saying... :ph34r:

Read it on Oztrack.com.au , there's other causes like bouncing off the limiter, overheating etc..

Edited by AngryRB

So researching and checking ask your facts before pulling the trigger means you don't need them?

Guess all the cheque book racers who get 1000hp plus built lambos and the likes don't actual need after market pistons in that case?

Such a stupid logic some people have, not like I asked do I need after market pistons for 300+kw or something.

Pretty much..

I assume that you want way over 1000hp at the crank....to even ask the question..so my assumption is that you don't need them if you have to ask...

Ill put it to you that unless you done over 1000hp at the crank ..before ...that you will run into the same sort of probs that workshops that have done this have encountered..and that

you stockpile blocks and practice nuking cheaper parts first because the rods and pistons , even cheap chinese shit wont be your problem...

if your a chequebook racer, well just go sign the cheques, if you need to double check said workshops info , you need to find another workshop

sorry if i offend you

cheers

darren

Pretty much..

I assume that you want way over 1000hp at the crank....to even ask the question..so my assumption is that you don't need them if you have to ask...

Ill put it to you that unless you done over 1000hp at the crank ..before ...that you will run into the same sort of probs that workshops that have done this have encountered..and that

you stockpile blocks and practice nuking cheaper parts first because the rods and pistons , even cheap chinese shit wont be your problem...

if your a chequebook racer, well just go sign the cheques, if you need to double check said workshops info , you need to find another workshop

sorry if i offend you

cheers

darren

Nope aiming for 400kw with a little room to grow. Why not upgrade pistons if the block will be stripped in the build anyway?

Get my reason?

And no not offended just find sometimes people are rude on this forum to legitimate threads or questions for no reason and it doesn't help the community grow.

Not saying yours was but it could be perceived like that

Edited by anon32

Well just some random thoughts on general SAU stuff.

Try and avoid F&F/Facebook language. Whatever the merits (or otherwise) of such language a considered, well put together post to start a thread will get a much better response than something that sounds like it was written by a bored, trolling teenager in 30 seconds. (Not saying yours was quite that bad.)

If you had have asked for a piston recommendation for a 400kW build you would have got no end of people saying Tomei/CP/JE/Nitto etc etc. All of which are fine.

If you had have asked what attributes of a piston may be important on an RB you may have got a different answer again.

TL:DR. When you start a thread try not to sound like a teenager, try and make it sound considered, include what you know and understand that aside from just answering (or not) your question it may well provide information for someone else at another time.

Lastly if you think I should shove my post up my ar$e that is probably fair enough.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...