Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb3025 Start Up Oil Pressure Issues

SkudR33

By SkudR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Recently finished my build and have only clocked about 1,000kms on the new motor.

Having a small issue which has had me baffled for a few weeks now.

My oil pressure light stays on when I start the car and is very lazy to build pressure. I think (on a cold morning) it takes upto 2 seconds for oil pressure to build up. I can also confirm that I hear the hydraulic lifters tapping loudly until the light turns off.

Once the car is on, my oil pressure is fine. Starts off nice and high and reduces to a good level as the oil warms up.

So to clarify, I have absolutely no oil pressure issues once the car is on and I'm driving.

I've tried researching a lot and can't find any decent leads - I'd greatly appreciate if you guys could provide me with some advice on how to resolve this issue!

I'm desperate for help as I'm leaning towards buying an oil accumulator to resolve this issue - i just don't want to blanket cover a deeper problem.

Cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457179-rb3025-start-up-oil-pressure-issues/
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what oil you using?

what mods done to engine?

any oil cooler or additional things in oiling system?

what guage?

Oil: royal purple 10w:40

Mods to engine: 40 thou forged Pistons and rods, crank with extended crank collar, n1 oil pump with standard gears, standard oil sump + pickup, cancelled VCT and grub screwed the feed.

Additions to oil system: none at the moment - only thing I did was fit the stock rb25 oil cooler thing to the rb30. Not using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge... Using the shitty stock one at the moment.

I know the stock gauge is inaccurate, but I know the light is accurate because once it turns off, the tappet noises quieten down.

breaker1845 Community Regular

breaker1845

Posted
Posted

Your oil and filter choice is fine. But the pressure not building up instantly on start up is a problem. You shouldn't be seeing a delay in pressure build up and the light should not come on.

There is definitely some underlying problem and the tappet noise could well be related to it.

Is there anything you may have skimmed over in the build (if you did it yourself) accidentally or some kind of blockage/restriction?

Might want to check the oil cooler is not getting restricted, causing that slight delay in pressure build up.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

what is the hot oil pressure reading? your not going to know this with OEM shitty gauge... get yourself an aftermarket one and sus it out. If over all pressure is low or it drops when hot then i'd dare say your bearing clearances are up shit creek

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Your oil and filter choice is fine. But the pressure not building up instantly on start up is a problem. You shouldn't be seeing a delay in pressure build up and the light should not come on.

There is definitely some underlying problem and the tappet noise could well be related to it.

Is there anything you may have skimmed over in the build (if you did it yourself) accidentally or some kind of blockage/restriction?

Might want to check the oil cooler is not getting restricted, causing that slight delay in pressure build up.

I built it myself with a mechanic over watching what I did. I don't recall missing anything and I'm not having any blowby issues.

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what is the hot oil pressure reading? your not going to know this with OEM shitty gauge... get yourself an aftermarket one and sus it out. If over all pressure is low or it drops when hot then i'd dare say your bearing clearances are up shit creek

Need an aftermarket gauge to tell you the exact pressure, but my oem gauge has similar readings to what I used to have before the rebuild. It seems as though issue is solely on startup but I do plan on getting a mechanical gauge thrown in to test...

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Filter drainback valve thingo.

I already tested for that issue. I turned the car off and let it sit for a day and then unscrewed my oil filter and it was still full of oil. Unfortunately that's not my issue :(
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The grub screwed vct oil feed- would this have an affect?

Research has shown me that everybody does this so I didn't even think about it. The grub screw is in the head though, so would it effect oil pressure at the sender unit in the block?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • oHBoy.
      2001 R34DE

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • MBS206
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
×
×
  • Create New...