Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've just finished putting 550cc nismo injectors, Z32 AFM, Hypergear highflow and a Power FC into my 1996 R33 GTST.

Now the only problem is that the car wont idle? As soon as it starts it dies, unless i control the revs manually.

I've gone through on the hand controller and turned the boost control kit off, I've set the injector latency correction and I've selected that it's running a Z32.

Any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/
Share on other sites

set the injectors to 450 and try that, it will all be changed once the tuner plays with it anyway.

sometimes they go a bit lean with the full 550 on the std map.

other thing is the orings could be weeping and over fueling.. check for black smoke instantly smoke after startup

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7546145
Share on other sites

Been playing around all afternoon and found a few things,

A hose that goes to the AAC was blocked that has now been cleared, still wouldn't start so I've pulled a spark plug out and from trying to start the car so many times I've fouled the plugs.

Would this not allow the car to start what so ever?

Edited by aMAYESing
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7546181
Share on other sites

adjusting latency settings won't be enough your injectors are bigger than standard you'll need to scale them back as you'll be over fuelling if you leave stocks ecu settings hence your wet plugs. Make sure you're o2 feedback function is switched on on the handset regardless of ignition and fuel values your car should still remain idling regardless of what inputs are selected in the idle section of the map. It's the only time the power fc reads the factory o2 sensors and does it only to stabilize idle and cruise throttle inputs I recommend you have a proper wideband fitted so you know what's going on otherwise you're just guessing and that's dangerous I wouldn't put a computer in a car without a wideband already fitted

Edited by mr skidz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7546203
Share on other sites

I had the same issue when i dropped 1000ccs in, I had done the injector latency corrections etc and it wouldn't idle. I found out it was running mega lean and I had to add more fuel over the course of the map. I have to go into ignition/injector correction every time I want to start the car and adjust the injector side so it runs right. Been driving around for 3 months like this and it drives pretty well, doesn't ping, run rich or knock its head off under load I think its about finding the sweet spot. Obviously its not as good as a full tune but its got me out and about for some more RandD to go back to the drawing board with before the real tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7546209
Share on other sites

I had the same issue when i dropped 1000ccs in, I had done the injector latency corrections etc and it wouldn't idle. I found out it was running mega lean and I had to add more fuel over the course of the map. I have to go into ignition/injector correction every time I want to start the car and adjust the injector side so it runs right. Been driving around for 3 months like this and it drives pretty well, doesn't ping, run rich or knock its head off under load I think its about finding the sweet spot. Obviously its not as good as a full tune but its got me out and about for some more RandD to go back to the drawing board with before the real tune.

but he's injectors are wet that can only be fuel so he's running rich he needs to back the scaling down Edited by mr skidz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7546216
Share on other sites

Injectors have been set to 67.5% with .18ms of lag to compensate as per paulr33's Power FC FAQ.

I have a wideband currently installed, but I cannot get the car to start so that's irrelevant atm. Just want to get the car running and know that it's all good before I leave it with a new tuner.

The only thing i can imagine the problem to be is the spark plugs, they're caked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7546235
Share on other sites

Sorry I only skim read the thread. If thats the case then back off some of the fuel until it starts and idles, then check it with your wideband once its ideling by its self and work off that. I dont have a wideband but I used gopro footage and a good ear to get mine to where it is atm. Just be careful as you can also cause damage if you go too far and dont have a understanding whats happening when pressing buttons.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7546258
Share on other sites

Make sure power fc is reset before you put your settings in if you've just altered it from when you received it the engine cranking fuel values might be too high from the previous tune also making your plugs wet or could also be your cold start values which also play a part when your engine is cold.

the two could be too high, best is to reset then put your values in.

on standard settings it should get your car kicked over but make sure 02 feedback function is switched on so the o2 sensors can stabilize your idol hope this helps

Edited by mr skidz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7546931
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies, put new plugs in today and had a general look over the engine to find a hose to the AAC was blocked. Unblocked the hose and with a bit of encouragement the car started and was running perfectly, got through the learning procedure without any dramas. Won't be driven until it's to the tuners in a few weeks.

Does anyone have a rough idea on how much would be a reasonable price for a full custom dyno tune? I've been quoted $8-900 and to me that just seems plain ridiculous.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7547174
Share on other sites

if plugs are wet i reckon the lower oring is nicked on the injectors or you pulled the injectors out of the rail whilst the rail was in the car and all the fuel emptied into the cylinders.

Try start it with your foot to the floor, will take upto 1min of cranking before its starts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457232-power-fc-help/#findComment-7547584
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...