Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A friend of mine has a Stagea (GTR wagon) and after putting a new (R34) engine in it, it has developed a surge (from driveline) at light throttle (cruise). At the same time, it is giving too much drive (according to the torque split gauge) to the front wheels. Seems like it thinks the rear whells are spinning.

I'm not sure about the surge in the driveline at light throttle, are the tailshaft unijoints tight maybe?

As for front torque there really shouldn't be any unless you are either taking a corner hard or accellerating bloody hard so it sounds like something is wrong there. Is he using the same size wheels and tyres front to rear?

We are aware that it shouyld not have any torque going to the front wheels under the conditions that you describe. That is the problem. It's getting too much torque to the front wheels. When it is driven hard, the sterring wheel is just about being riped out of his hand.

Wheels are the same.

The surge and the torque split problem are one in the same.

Did he put in *just* the motor from the R34, or the front diff as well? As you are no doubt aware, R33 and R34 diff ratios are different - could explain the problem.

If the diffs are OK, I'd be checking simple things like tyre pressures and wear, and perhaps try rotating front to back.

How's the clutch? Maybe it's worn and somehow creating the problem? I know on gear changes torque seems to be directed to the front... I was experiencing the same problem you describe on 2 occasions: 1/when I had a dodgy clutch 2/ when my inner edges were scrubbed and the ECU thought tyres were rotating at different rates front:rear.

I had a similar problem with my GTS4 - it turned out the connections to the TPS were a bit suss. Make sure they are connected properly, maybe use a bit of contact cleaner on the terminals as well.

You should know what a TPS is - its not an item specific to Nissans, Toyotas have them too.

How is the wiring harness from the ATTESA controller to the transfer case? If there is a poor contact or broken wire you get this sort of stuff happening. Did you reset the ECU's before you started the engine? It may also be worthwhile getting one of Impakt's diagnostic displays (like a Nissan Dealer Consult) and checking out the sensors. The R34 engine sensors are slightly different to the R33's. Did you swap ALL of the R33 sensors (off the old engine) when you changed over to the new engine?

There are a few more things you can try, but I suspect one of the above will be the problem. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...