Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pardon me please if this is in the wrong section but I was hoping someone could give me advice.

I have Nismo R32 GT-R #167 and I'm in the process of fixing her back up to her former glory. To that end I plan on adding several Nismo parts. I already have a Nismo clutch going in to replace the heavy-ass one already in the car and upgraded Nismo engine and gearbox mounts. The place I bought the car from gave me a period-correct Nismo wheel to slap on. I got a Nismo 320kph speedo off eBay. Eventually I want to get some other bits like a Nismo gear knob, seat covers, etc.

One thing that eludes me though since AFAIK it's been discontinued is a Nismo intercooler. Since my R32 is an authentic Nismo GT-R I think it would be great to have a Nismo logo proudly showing on the front but where could I get one? All the shops I've cheked online just have it listed as discontinued. Anyone know of anyone who wants to part with one? Any chance Yahoo auctions or another similar site might have one? Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

If I can't find one it's not the end of the world for me. I'll probably go with a Blitz intercooler or similar in that case but it sure would be cool to have an authentic Nismo IC for my authentic Nismo GT-R :)

Oh,and is the R32 intercooler unique from the R33 and R34 or were they all the same, just differing in piping?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Edited by GSX-R35

yahoo will have one floating around.

oh also the nismo wheel, if it requires a boss kit to put it on Nismo did make one. They are quite hard to find but hey, nismo!

Sounds like I have to hit up Yahoo auctions then. Thanks. As for the wheel, I do need a new boss kit for it. My car has a Momo wheel on it and I was told the kit it uses won't work with the Nismo because the bolt pattern is different. I'm okay with a non-Nismo made boss kit like a Works Bell or NRG though. You wouldn't happen to have suggestions on which kits from either of those companies would work with a Nismo wheel by any chance or any suggestions on other brands to consider? I've done some research on it but haven't settled on a firm answer since I've been more occupied with sussing out parts for needed maintenance and repainting of my car. I'm hoping to put it in for respray in July and after that restore the interior so the wheel situation has been on the back burner for now.

I thought Boss kits are universal... What nismo wheel is it? There is a few variations. Mine is sitting next to me currently. I would say you can use the boss kit that the momo is attached to...

The earlier nismo intercooler is identical to an 70mm ARC intercooler, the later one which came out after R34s were released is a 100mm item

The later version is possibly also ARC, but if so it comes in a polished version not normally available from ARC.

I have the early nismo one on my 32.

If you find a R34 intercooler, it will fit, but it just has an air temp bung to use or plug on the drivers side of the FMIC.

I thought Boss kits are universal... What nismo wheel is it? There is a few variations. Mine is sitting next to me currently. I would say you can use the boss kit that the momo is attached to...

The Nismo wheel I have is identical to this one (only with the leather in better shape):

minesr32027Medium.jpg

The Momo that's on right now is identical to this one:

car043.jpg

They both have a six bolt pattern but I was told that the boss kit I have wouldn't work because the orientation is different - the Momo has the top screw at 12 o'clock while the Nismo has two top screws at 11 and 1'oclock. Sorry but I don't know nearly enough about aftermarket wheels and boss kits to say otherwise so I'd appreciate the correction if I was told the wrong thing.

Edited by GSX-R35

The earlier nismo intercooler is identical to an 70mm ARC intercooler, the later one which came out after R34s were released is a 100mm item

The later version is possibly also ARC, but if so it comes in a polished version not normally available from ARC.

I have the early nismo one on my 32.

If you find a R34 intercooler, it will fit, but it just has an air temp bung to use or plug on the drivers side of the FMIC.

Thanks for the info. So with the R34 IC (if that's what I can find), that air temp bung can be closed off for use on the R32 and no other modifications needed? Just want to make sure I understand correctly.

They both have a six bolt pattern but I was told that the boss kit I have wouldn't work because the orientation is different - the Momo has the top screw at 12 o'clock while the Nismo has two top screws at 11 and 1'oclock. Sorry but I don't know nearly enough about aftermarket wheels and boss kits to say otherwise so I'd appreciate the correction if I was told the wrong thing.

Given that the top end of the steering column is splined, I would have thought that adjusting the alignment of the boss would be to the resolution of 1 spline.

  • Like 2

Given that the top end of the steering column is splined, I would have thought that adjusting the alignment of the boss would be to the resolution of 1 spline.

same nismo wheel i have ^^

The boss kit should work. What GTSBoy said^^

Thanks for the info. I'll have to pull off the Momo wheel when I get a chance and see what's up.

I saw that auction when I did a quick search on another Yahoo auction search site. I wish it had pics that were more close-up cause it seems to have a lot of bent fins.

that is a very early model nismo intercooler that is made by ARC. Those are pretty rare also. I emailed for better pics, but no response. It does look pretty beat up, so I passed as well. It has been up for a very long time. I bought a decent newer style r32/r33 off the auctions. Only one i've seen in about 6 months.

After some fin straightening

YgLeT8O.jpg

It looks different than my ARC intercooler. Notice how it triangles out between the rows of fins . I dont remember that on my nismo. I am not home, so I cant check.

enSwiir.jpg

9y8Cn2m.jpg

Edited by JTCC

that is a very early model nismo intercooler that is made by ARC. Those are pretty rare also. I emailed for better pics, but no response. It does look pretty beat up, so I passed as well. It has been up for a very long time. I bought a decent newer style r32/r33 off the auctions. Only one i've seen in about 6 months.

After some fin straightening

It looks different than my ARC intercooler. Notice how it triangles out between the rows of fins . I dont remember that on my nismo. I am not home, so I cant check.

Yeah, I wasn't digging the condition of that old Nismo. I don't mind it's an earlier style since it's period correct for the car but it just looks pretty worn. If it were a lot cheaper I might bite but not for $1K.

What are you planning on doing with your ARC now that you have two intercoolers? Are you considering selling it?

Yeah, I wasn't digging the condition of that old Nismo. I don't mind it's an earlier style since it's period correct for the car but it just looks pretty worn. If it were a lot cheaper I might bite but not for $1K.

What are you planning on doing with your ARC now that you have two intercoolers? Are you considering selling it?

Its on my rb25 s13.

r4Zp0JR.jpg

  • 1 year later...

I have one for sale brand new in box. $3,400 plus shipping. contact me through instagram at superb_rated

Dang, that is a very pretty IC! The want is strong but unfortunately I don't have the budget right now with my build still finishing up. I'd be interested if my build were finished but that's still a couple of months away by my estimate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...