Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1997 R33 GT-R FOR SALE

Engine:
R33 cylinder head, R34 standard bottom end. Purchased from Japan with engine number to prove block is from R34 GT-R.
Nismo 1.2mm metal head gasket
Tomei 1.5mm oil restrictor
Tomei sump baffle with trap doors
Gates Racing timing belt
Nissan OEM RB26 water pump
Nissan OEM Long Life Coolant
NGK BCPR7ES every 5,000km
Racepace Motorsport adjustable cam gears
K&N high flow panel filter in stock airbox
Garrett 2859-9 (HKS GT-SS equiv) with brand new gaskets, washers and adjustable actuators
Racepace boost controller
Just Jap oil catch tank with washer bottle
Nismo RB26 Airflow metres
Nismo RB26 276lph fuel pump
XSpurt 1000cc injectors
Apexi Power FC with hand controller
Splitfire RB26 coil packs
Mine's 70x2mm to 80mm front pipe
3" test pipe
Tomei 3.5" Ti Expreme catback

There may be more that I have missed, but the whole engine setup is quite track safe with the addition of an oil cooler. Castrol Edge 10w60 is used every 5,000km and oil temps stay below 100 degrees on spirited driving.
The beauty of this setup is that it can easily be reverted back to factory standard as everything was a bolt on affair and I have ALL the standard engine parts AND a whole bunch of spares (plenum, fuel rail, sump, CAS etc); which will be included in the sale. Also included in the sale will be a complete dump back standard R33 GT-R exhaust system and standard R33 GT-R V Spec suspension.
The car was tuned in August at Chequered Tuning on United E85. Final power figure was 364rwkw @ 6,500rpm and just shy of 600Nm @ 4,000rpm. Reaches full boost of 21psi by 4000rpm.

Drivetrain:
Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate clutch
Redline MT90 transmission fluid
Nissan OEM D-Matic fluid for ATTESSA system
Motul Gear 300 LSD fluid

Brakes:
Standard R33 GT-R Brembos with Ferrodo DS2500 pads front and rear
ADR approved braided brake lines
Motul RBF600 brake fluid

Suspension:
BC BR coilovers OTS spring rates (8kg/mm front, 6kg/mm rear)
Adjustable front upper camber arms
Cusco adjustable castor rods
Wheels and tyres
20mm bolt on, hubcentric spacers
Standard R33 GT-R 17"x9" +30 wheels with 245/45/17 Dunlop Z1 Star Spec tyres.

Interior:
Nardi 330mm deep corn steering wheel with Daikei hub specifically for R33 GT-R (no ABS lights)
Nismo GT duracon shift knob

Exterior:
Just Jap carbon fibre rear wing blade
Nismo GT-R spoiler end caps
N1 bonnet lip

Once again, I may have missed a few things but this gives you a good idea of what the car presents. The body has a few imperfections as the car is actually driven and currently sits on approximately 127,xxxkm. I can't imagine it being a major turn off to potential buyers though.

The car is for sale at a price of $25,000 ONO.
RWC can be provided upon negotiation with the buyer.

I have been as thorough as possible in specifying what I have to offer and would appreciate nobody making ridiculous offers. I am not here to entertain joy riders and a deposit would be required prior to test driving the vehicle.

Kindest regards
Michael

post-53453-0-66052200-1434602456_thumb.jpg

post-53453-0-98575500-1434602469_thumb.jpg

post-53453-0-89730600-1434602480_thumb.jpg

post-53453-0-86874500-1434602489_thumb.jpg

post-53453-0-71646200-1434602498_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457556-vic-97-r33-gtr-9-e85-365rwkw/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...