Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

V35

All computers apart from the ones with Bluetooth

V36 and others

Menu/Full FM radio and GPS on 2010 onwards Skylines, all crossovers and e52 Elgrand. Anything with USB late generation

Hey guys!

So, I've been doing so research on and off the internet regarding the V35 and came across someone who is willing to do the Japanese to English conversion. I've seen the menu's in person as well!

His name is Alex from Nagoya Motors in Caringbah, Sydney, NSW. Tell him Vik sent you and he will take care of it. Also, you will need to leave the car with him for about 4 hours, and he will give you a loan car as well!

0422 524 277

I messaged him this morning to confirm the price and $550 is what he confirmed. [emoji16] Hope this helps!post-46821-14350976963785_thumb.jpg

There's apparently a guy in Akl that can do this as well, but it didn't att NZ maps, and the price was about 50% more than your suggestion there.

I am in Christchurch so would be very happy if there was someone down here that could do it for ~$700NZD (including nav)

Cheers - N

he can, last time i checked it was 2-2.5k for a full English + AUS maps conversion

I think that was for the russian guys. I just texted Alex and he said he is still trying to come up with something for the 2007-2009 cars which will require some hardware changes. At this point of time he doesn't know how much it'll cost or when they will have a product.

Contacted him as well. For a V36 2010+ model, cost of conversion is $2200 GST inclusive. If you can't bring the car in, he said: we can remove and send the navigation block to him and he will send it back the next business day. Very tempting !

Edited by Dog with Bone

personally i don't think the price is outrageous

it's like adding sat-nav to a brand new car (give or take few hundred bucks)

i just happened to purchase a 370GT pre-installed instead of the 350GT still in japanese

I dont think its outrageous but I didnt install it on mine when the guys from Xanavi came to WA cause I hardly ever use sat-nav. Very worth while for the V36 Gen 1 guys since they will swap the screen and back end to the newer hardware too

Edited by colin.ssc

Alex shouldnt be charging 550 for v35. That is a rip off. We set it up to help people not take advantage of them.

P.S we all work for the same Russian

  • Like 1

Sounds very much like this is a well understood process now, but that it requires some special tools (I presume a consult 3+ or similar) and a unicorn horn image/DVD...

Do you gents know of anyone in NZ doing the same thing apart from the one guy in Auckland that wanted $1000NZD to convert a J50 Crossover (2010 V36 equivalent with USB not CF card). I presume he's using the Aussie image since he said the NAV didn't work for NZ.

Cheers - N

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...