Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just about to lay down the cash for a Apexi Power FC for my R32 GTR,when a very knowledgable and trusted source mentions Autronic as an option.I realise that both Autronic systems aren't merely "plug in & play" like the P. FC.,but I'm interested in having the features of the full management system.I'm used to seeing the Apexi unit in almost everything that comes from Japan,so this Autronic thing is a new thing to me.I considered MoTec for a brief second,until the Bank Manager drew the crosshairs on me...and Microtech wont get a look in(been down that road with a friend before).The car is,effectively,standard right now,but will be the recipient for 2530's,pistons,rods,cams,clutch,fuel system etc etc in the not-to-distant future,hence the debate between the known quantity(Power FC)and the Aussie contender(Autronic,obviously...).I'm torn between the two-any info' on what you lot may've been through with either system would be appreciated!Cheers,J.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45785-power-fc-vs-autronic/
Share on other sites

Looking at your mods list (noting the great choice of 2530's), the Power FC would be my preference. For less than half what the Autronic would cost, wired and tuned.

Have a look at any of the PFC versus other ECU's threads, the Wolf is probably the best comparison. All the advantages of the PFC are listed.

Are there differences in the power FC's across the RB25 production years?

I have a 3.0 running an RB25DE head, and have been reading these sort of topics with interest.

I have been wanting to wire in an autronic or haltech as I think it would be enjoyable/a good experience especially with an engine conversion however I am a bit worried lately about getting an engineers certificate and a powerfc in a nissan box is looking more and more attractive.

whats wrong with wasted spark anyway? ignition problems? get the autronic cdi, that has so much power you can melt the end of the spark plugs off if you wanted to. If your going to try blow out that spark **** knows how much power your going to be making.

autronic can controle the standard idel controle valve, air con idel up, colsed loop functions so i have no idea where it is so called not as good. If autronic is so bad then same goes for motec as they are nearly identical as they come fromt he same makers after they broke up, and how many motecs do u see in japanese cars, alot if they are so bad.

SR910, And how much extra is the CDI? Why bother buying a more expensive unit like Autronic if you then also have to buy an extra CDI unit?

Of the two choices given I'd go PFC, but if you can find a good tuner then the Wolf is also a good choice.

Autronic CDI only has two caps so they are close to usless.Two capasitors 6 coils you work it out.

WE have a GTR making 683rwhp on a Wolf with stock coils, see this car in the current Zoom as it has just run 10.7 at 139.96mph.Waste spark is a bad thing and we even got our money back from autronic for a SMD and CDI that could not handle the ign this GTR now has a Plugin wolf and problems are solved first try after 3 years pain with the old set up.

Autronic and Motec are now far removed from each other as the split was many years ago.

I own a old autronic SMC and i'm wrapped with it but thats just me as i like to play with things.

It handles the Idle valve and ignition very well but i dont have stock coils anymore i have a 3xtwin coil packs & modules from bosch or something.

Also i have to raise another point about autronic ecu's are you need to replace the trigger disk in the CAS.

Now for you i would say get something plugin unless you really want to dish out the extra to get a SM2 with all the nice little extra's that the smc doesn't have.

Also the smc is really overpriced last time I checked compared to most powerFC/plugins prices i've seen & the sm2 is lots more.

John

PS on a side note they are fun to tune if you have all the gear (Autronic WB02) and hooked up correctly.

i have an SMC installed in my supercharged mitsubishi pajero, its an evo lancer plug and play with an extra ignition driver wired into the board. it works awesome, plugged straight into my original loom and i have the advantage of a nice big laptop screen to look at for tuning.... and how good is that auto tune feature, autronic is certainly not behind the eight ball when it comes to ecu's

i have an SMC installed in my supercharged mitsubishi pajero, its an evo lancer plug and play with an extra ignition driver wired into the board. it works awesome, plugged straight into my original loom and i have the advantage of a nice big laptop screen to look at for tuning.... and how good is that auto tune feature, autronic is certainly not behind the eight ball when it comes to ecu's

I HAVE to agree with Steve-SST, an ECU is a package, you just can't simply pick out 2 features and say it is better because of those. :headspin:

Let me choose one for comparison, a PFC with Commander is going to be 1/4 the cost of a Autronic and a lap top. If I have a "free" lap top, then I can add a Datalogit to the PFC, still less than 1/2 the cost.

How much extra did the auto tune really cost? Software, wiring, F&W lambda, tuning time etc etc. You get nothing for nothing.

I have used Autronics in a number of cars, BMW Supertourer, Commondoor (all of Larry's customer cars came with Autronics) etc. They are a great ECU for particular purposes, not EVERY purpose.

Horses for courses :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...