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Help Learning To Shim Front Gtr T-case

MJTru
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MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Ok i figured ill have to start a new thread on this topic.

I just ripped apart a r32 gtr transfercase. It seems very to simple to pull apart. I noticed a pump in the front that sends fluid in the middle of the shaft to keep the friction disk lubricated all the time that was smart on nissans part. Next i noticed that it has a floating shaft that is responsible for sending the torque to the front wheels via a chain when the friction disks are engaged. Next thing i noticed that there is a spring thats always keeping the for the fron torque disengaged. Next there is a piston kind of like a brake caliper piston that pushed against the spring thats keeping the friction disks from engaging. So as oil pressure increase it starts to work against the spring ans slowly starts to engage the friction disks that applies torque to the floating shaft, chain starts to spin and front wheels starts to spin.

I hope i got that right. ???:unsure:

Here is what i noticed in the friction disk area there is metal plates all of different sizes. Im guessing that you would use one of the small ones to add to a worn unit. How would you measure it up. If its to thick the big clip wouldn't fit on the drum is what im thinking. Next does anyone know hiw to identify a worn friction disk, as i dont have a new one to compare it against.

Ive read online that these friction disks are not avaliable anymore. Is this true.

I really would like to find or create a thread on this build. Please note that this T-case is rusted away and it was only for practice taking it apart.

post-37293-14370063515981_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14370063756568_thumb.jpg

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

There was a thread a couple of years ago: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436604-transfer-case-rebuild/?hl=%20transfer%20%20case%20%20rebuild

and this is the business end:

Transfer case rebuild

Its not the adding of plates.

Its the arrangement of them

There are 19 plates in the standard setup, 12 outers and 7 inners to make up the clutch pack,

Outer = O, Inner = I when reading the layout below.....

Stock is IOOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOOI

Full max grip rearrangement would be IOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOI

You only need another old transfer case to rip the plates out of to rearrange your old setup, scavanging the extra inner plates to use, you need to select ones of the right thickness to end up with the correct end clutch pack thickness so some mix and matching is required.

You don't need to go full grip, you can make up your own arrangement of plates like something in the middle like IOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOIOI

Same theory as playing with a Cusco LSD clutch pack arrangement, see page 9 below.......

http://www.cusco.co....Guide Final.pdf

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Just to clarify this is not my work ... I was just quoting Peter (GTRPSI) but I assume same as you. You could confirm by counting the plates in a newly opened box - if there are 7 friction plates then yes they are the I plates and the other 12 are the O plates. PS please confirm when you have done this count!

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm. Thats is right. But i have 13 O plates. Looks like someone has shimmed this old transfer case already. I noticed the end plates are way thicker (O) plates which makes sense.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I would like to replace the friction plates but i cant seem to find them for sale. Only place i know is NO1 set from IIRC is RKTuning. When i go to there website i can seem to get there email.

Edited by MJTru
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok i understand whats going on. There are 2 outer big rings called the retainer plates then the 12 driven plates and 7 drive plates. Thats all original. The end measurement has to be .2 to .5mm by the retainer clip. Thats wit all the disks in the drum.

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r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

That's interesting, it's only one plate that you need to change to adjust the preload, which would mean all the inner and outer plates are the same thickness

As for where to order email rhd

  • Like 1
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I have contacted them and awaiting a reply.

If i only have to change one plate that means the wear is very minimal.? Once i burn out this clutch i have i will pull it off the box im using at the moment. I was looking at how the design is. As it wears the piston on the back of the gear box would have to move further outwards to engage the disks. I was thinking if there was some kind of adjustment that could have been done to take up for the worn disk. Like in between the piston and engagement leaver.

Just a thought here.

Edited by MJTru
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

Thats right, 7 drive and 12 driven plates.

Remove driven and change to drive so you have a drive driven drive driven combo.

Use the link back to cusco diffs in the other thread to understand how to increase lockup. :)

doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted

worn discs look a little like this.....

Don't forget when measuring preload you need to have the shaft/hub setup installed case with the hydraulic ram/fork etc installed too. Preload is adjusted (Nissan manual) by changing the thicker end plates as you've noticed- you can buy the discs with the correct thickness from Nissan, incremented sizes like shimming. (you can also buy new friction/drive discs from Nissan. At Nissan prices) Or get inventive with machining- adjustable push-rod length between fork and piston would be my choice of mod too......

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MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Wow those arnt worn there missing the actual friction material. Lol

I did notice that they sell the plates with different thickness in the manual. Rhd took long to reply, but they asked for part number. So ill have to do my measurements before hand. What nice to know is that now i know all im changing is the thick plates. (Shimming it) i was thinking i would need to add a small disk. Talk about wrong. Please look at this link. I cant seem to find the email address and does anyone know if they still make these. ???

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/165575-group-buy-n01-transfer-box-race-clutch-pack.html#/forumsite/21025/topics/165575?page=1

Edited by MJTru
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Wow those arnt worn there missing the actual friction material. Lol

I did notice that they sell the plates with different thickness in the manual. Rhd took long to reply, but they asked for part number. So ill have to do my measurements before hand. What nice to know is that now i know all im changing is the thick plates. (Shimming it) i was thinking i would need to add a small disk. Talk about wrong. Please look at this link. I cant seem to find the email address and does anyone know if they still make these. ???

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/165575-group-buy-n01-transfer-box-race-clutch-pack.html#/forumsite/21025/topics/165575?page=1

According to Google:

www.rktuning.com/html/contact.html

Address: Unit 4 Nashlea Farm Poors Lane North Daws Heath Benfleet Essex SS7 2XF Telephone / Fax: 01702 557124. Business hours: 8:30am to 5:30pm

email address: [email protected]

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I have sent them an email. Well after launching the car i can really say its no where close to how my r33 gtr gets off the line. Somthing is definitely wrong with the transfer case. Its doing something but not pulling as it should. Im going to pull it down and see whats up. I upgraded the clutch and drained the transfercase oil and noticed it was bark in color. Keeping in mind this oil has no more than 2000km on it. It shouldnt be that dirty. To add the electronics are working fine. It goes to full 50/50 split the mechanics just aren't doing its job. Has anyone used the kit from Rktuning before???

Edited by MJTru

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