Jump to content
SAU Community

My 300rwkw+ Goal For R33 Gtst S2 + Oem Intake Mani Questions

Skyline_enthusiasticR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Now see I have never removed my inlet pipe to do the plugs.......its - like kinks said - doable without too much trouble.

A socket that fits is wwwwwwaaaaayyyyy cheaper [say $100 max] than a ffp and all that hot gear your looking at. And now that I've reduced your mod costs by $1000+ you can now afford that flash new turbo.

And as everyone says 300rwkw is more than achievable with the std plenum, there are people on here with a fair bit more than that and still running with the OEM.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

Run bcpr7eix @0.55mm and plug changes are literally non existent (tri yearly operation..) factory plenum works fine into the high 300s.

GT3076 0.82

or hypergear G4 SAT

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

A GT35 will do 400rwkw on E85

So a fair bit further from your 300rwkw. It'll also be well outside a lot of the other parts you've already fitted.

Stick to the "around" 300rwkw, don't go for more.

  • Like 1
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

Can confirm factory plenum (at least on R34) is good for well over 400+

The difference in ACTUAL speed of a car is really not much AT ALL between 300 and 400 due to soooo many other things suddenly becoming a variable. A punchy as possible 280 is what you want unless you are willing to go full retard. A bolt on, IWG solution is the smart solution. Spend the rest of the money for your build on making the thing turn, drive well, stop, etc and you will have MUCH BETTER CAR.

Source: MY WALLET.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

That atr45sat, that's the direct Bolt on for the rb25det? And if I'm not mistaken that's close to a gt3582r? If so I've chosen my turbo :)

That is a direct bolton turbo except u will need induction pipe and a silicon elbow plus 4 longer manifold studs. power level is close to a 3582 but similar response to a 3076 in .82 rear.

Skyline_enthusiasticR33 Rookie

Skyline_enthusiasticR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I've planned to put 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump when I do the turbo anyway but I don't really want to touch the internals just yet so I don't want to push 300rwkw too far and it's just had new fuel lines put in it so should be good to run on e85

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

I also am running well over 300kW on the stock plenum and also stock exhaust manifold :)

No need for fancy shit, save that money for rack and tits

Isn't time a funny thing... 10 years ago, people would point and scream liar at a 300kw rb25 with stock manifolds.

Rack? Or Crack?

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Isn't time a funny thing... 10 years ago, people would point and scream liar at a 300kw rb25 with stock manifolds.

Rack? Or Crack?

E85 was readily available here that's why, water meth boys did 300kW+ though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...