Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i had my car retuned a few weeks ago and the tuner noticed oil temp was consistantly high.

when it was last tuned and driven oil temp would sit at 80 degrees and now it sits between 90-100 when cruising at 100kph.

before the tune i switched from motul turbolight to penrite racing 10 10w40 and tidied up oil cooler (flipped how i installed it and moved temp sensor in line)

once the car has sat off for 10-15mins oil temp is back to 65-70.

engine:

built rb25 (2000km old, built by red r racing about 4.5 yrs ago) 6boost, gt3076 .82ex, greddy plenum, 1000cc xpurts.

nitto oil pump, rb20 oil block, mocal thermostat oil block (group buy kit), 19row setrab oil cooler (sits behind a opening in front bar), z145a filter

tuner has told me to use a thicker oil to see if that will solve the problem but i can't see how its gone from running normal to hot.

could there be another issue or changing the oil type will make that much difference?

and what oil should i try next? looking at penrite hpr10 10w50 or go back to motul?

What does your water temp do? Does your oil temp go nuts when you push the car hard? What does your oil pressure say at cruise? Always use Motul 10W 30 myself - if nothing else it can stand the heat .

Where have you moved the temp sensor from and too Rob?

The fact that youve played with the oil cooler and temp sensor makes me think either something is not right, or the temp sensor has moved from post cooler to pre-cooler

Sounds like it could be a plumbing problem. At cruise the oil shouldn't be getting hot enough to open the thermostat to send oil to the cooler. How have you got the cooler orientated in relation to the oil lines and are you sure the thermostat is plumbed correctly?

Where have you moved the temp sensor from and too Rob?

The fact that youve played with the oil cooler and temp sensor makes me think either something is not right, or the temp sensor has moved from post cooler to pre-cooler

This

Cal it's in one of the oil lines, just removed some of the adaptors I was using.Will swap it to the other line and see if there is a difference.

Oil cooler is mounted with inlet and outlet facing up. I rotated the oil block 90 degrees so fitting now faces downward and thermostat is horizontal.

Will remove the thermostat and check. Oil is getting to the cooler as it is getting hot.

Edited by robbo_rb180

If it is a temp issue (as opposed to sensor/gauge ect), picking up a bearing can result in high oil temps at low rpm/load.

Post some pic's of the oil cooler set up.

Cheers

J

Edited by XRATED

either would I, but IF he's is getting hotter than usual oil temps- just cruising...

I agree, it's more than likely a gauge/sensor re-location change that is displaying different temps.

I run the same oil (Penrite 10w40) and my oil temps sit at 70-80 when cruising and giving it stick on the road and only hits 90-100 when on the track. This is in Darwin heat too so could be more than likely gauge/sensor

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...