Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Depending on how this ets pro works ill go with the manual setup. This is really all an experiment really. Im after what works for me the simplest way. I do really want to try the manual setup. I still collecting parts for the setup an thought in the mean while ill give the ets pro a go. I looked over some post and Geoff mentioned that i can run manual mode and when the car is on its way flip the switch to 2wd mode. If i wire the speed sensor with some sort of controller (computer) to interrupt the switch on the ets pro 4wd 2wd mode.

Im suprised that lots og guys here dont really drag race. Someone should make a drag racing section.

Edited by MJTru

You'll be surprised how much difference just altering the plates in the transfer case will make.

IMO it's 70% mechanical and 30% electronic.

The gains you get from the transfer case "mod" (ie, rebuilding, altering the plate arrangement etc) is just exceptional. You get FAR more front end transfer immediately.

It could likely be all you will need, as Joey said earlier and IMO - best post thus far.

  • Like 3

Have you done the bolt mod, how does it work?

Yep I've got it, I haven't really had a play with it but the car does feel like it hooks up a bit better..

Obviously I could preload it more but I would need to be careful on the 2wd dyno as to not burn out the t case

You'll be surprised how much difference just altering the plates in the transfer case will make.

IMO it's 70% mechanical and 30% electronic.

The gains you get from the transfer case "mod" (ie, rebuilding, altering the plate arrangement etc) is just exceptional. You get FAR more front end transfer immediately.

It could likely be all you will need, as Joey said earlier and IMO - best post thus far.

This.....

  • Like 1

Main problem with that mod is it can be hard to seal the thread so you may get a slight leak

So what's the mod?

I searched but couldn't find anything.

If you cant be bothered explaining, just point me to a link.

Thanks

So on the back side of the t case there's a round part that protrudes out.

You still and tap a thread and use a bolt to pre load the actuator.

I'll get a photo next time it's on the hoist

  • Like 1

So on the back side of the t case there's a round part that protrudes out.

You still and tap a thread and use a bolt to pre load the actuator.

I'll get a photo next time it's on the hoist

It makes lots of sense. It would lock the 4wd up like a evo is or any all time 4wd car. Thats what i reall want. But only in a straight line. After that its a nightmare on the way home. So i would rather manipulate the attessa pump for full lock going with the ETS PRO from full race. Or better yet do the mechanical method with the pump. But i wanted to make sure the disks were all good. Then focus on everything else. Good ideas guys. Even when i try this ets pro next week ill do the mechanical pump and try to make a system that has both streetability and drag racing (full lock in mind). By turning a bottle valve and separating the two systems.

We couldn't believe how easy the transfercase was to do. I would recommend it to anyone thats a mechanic.

I have finished my installation of this ets pro. What i would like to know is. ?? My 4wd light is on. I installed it just as one mate on this did. I would figure the light would come on because the attessa computer picks up an ooen circuit see how the pump wires need to be cut and hook up directly to the ets pro. ???

Can anyone shine some light on this situation

Ok so we figured out today that the ets pro is working and well at that. We are now leaving the line with full 4wd lock and can feel it. This is in manual mode and hitting the 2wd switch in 3rd. We really dont need to time anything as we can simply feel the difference with these new friction disks. We would like to add the following.

1. We would have loved to see the actual torque split gauge still work for the 660 dollar we paid for the system.

2. We would have loved the company to offer stickers for the modes and percentage for the manual mode nob. Next even a 2wd drive and 4wd sticker.. simple no big deal.

3. If there is a mismatch in tire size the system has no way of knowing this and will damage the transfercase. Thats bad. But we figure the reasoning would be just for racing. ? But the product didn't even come with instructions in the package. Thank god for this site.

4. In our opinion for its to be called a full stand alone system it should first be better at self diagnosis than the oem system. Opinion here. By tracing all wheels sensors. We understand the way it works has nothing do do with wheel sensors. But find it fare as a statement. but wait who cares its simple.

5. The company should mension if its better to use the product in 2wd mode or 4wd mode for simple street driving. As we cant monitor the % of the way it engages the front wheel keeping in mind that there is a nob. It would be nice if there was a way to utilize the factory torque spirit gauge via some sort of output.

Finally we would recommend this unit to anyone. We simply wish the price was way cheaper. So we offered just some ideas to justify the price. We end by saying this is by far the best attessa controller we and i have ever used. Simple. Thanks full race.

Edited by MJTru

You referred to the pump but Isn't it just the solenoid wires that are cut?

I thought the original atessa control unit still think it's working so should not trigger the light on the dash?

Have you completely removed the original unit?

Edited by s2d4

So you simply rebuilt your x-fer case as standard? Does ANYONE want to spill the beans on what "altering the plate arrangement" means? There are a handful of threads talking about this but no one actually cares to explain it.

There are 2 ways to measure when front wheels get engaged and by what amount, either a pressure gauge on the hydraulics or a volt meter on the solenoid wiring or both. That would be fairly accurate I think

So you simply rebuilt your x-fer case as standard? Does ANYONE want to spill the beans on what "altering the plate arrangement" means? There are a handful of threads talking about this but no one actually cares to explain it.

Search harder

So you simply rebuilt your x-fer case as standard? Does ANYONE want to spill the beans on what "altering the plate arrangement" means? There are a handful of threads talking about this but no one actually cares to explain it.

Yes its been posted a couple of times. It goes like this:

Transfer case rebuild

Its not the adding of plates.

Its the arrangement of them

There are 19 plates in the standard setup, 12 outers and 7 inners to make up the clutch pack,

Outer = O, Inner = I when reading the layout below.....

Stock is IOOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOOI

Full max grip rearrangement would be IOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOI

You only need another old transfer case to rip the plates out of to rearrange your old setup, scavanging the extra inner plates to use, you need to select ones of the right thickness to end up with the correct end clutch pack thickness so some mix and matching is required.

You don't need to go full grip, you can make up your own arrangement of plates like something in the middle like IOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOIOI

Same theory as playing with a Cusco LSD clutch pack arrangement, see page 9 below.......

http://www.cusco.co....Guide Final.pdf

  • Like 1

Yes i seen this post before. Thanks for that guys. I thinking of changing the arrangements as well as i should have done so when i rebuild the transfer case.:(

But i dont mind doing it again. As i have 7 good disk that came out.

Has anyone tried a full lock setup. To see how it works. I have my switch set right as i go into 3rd so that my fingers can hit the switch to rwd mode. See the attached photo.

Im just wondering how it would work on a full lock arrangements for street driving. ?????

As of now i notice that the ets pro applies more transfercase pressure as im driving normal so i opp to leave it in rwd mode and inly use it for drag days.

Edited by MJTru

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...