Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah they arent well i dont think they are.

You be the judge.

just wanting to know best way to go about turboing this car. like sort of turbo etc, ive got a fair idea on what i need:

exhaust manifold

turbo

oil feed and return line

ecu

intercooler and piping

fuel pressure reg

and so on, just need an opinion of someone who has been around nissan motors

Start saving for pulsar gtir. They're worth f**k all these days anyway

There's a reason most are cheap.

You got pulsar questions?

PGA is dead, but there's a lot of people on the Facebook page.

Otherwise SR20-forum.com is the place to go. N14-15 is similar to B14 sentra.

Also I've rambled on about basic pulsar mods on ozpulsar.com.au

yeah I was gong to suggest a GTI-R too, they have the best version of the SR20, big factory intercooler, proper awd driveline, etc

finding a good one will be the painful part, most have been trashed to death. barely see them anymore

yeah I was gong to suggest a GTI-R too, they have the best version of the SR20

Sorry but that's incorrect. Everyone goes VE for a reason.

I'm doing my last 54C (gtir) build now. Never again. Parts getting too hard to find with little benefits.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate, couldn't find in VIC, ended up ordering one from NSW, getting rwc to get new plates and registration done.
    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
×
×
  • Create New...