Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, so this week I installed the Nismo hard pipe intercooler kit on my R34 Gtr. After install took it for a drive and notice there is a boost leak and can't hold more than 0.4 bar of boost. So took the bumper off and re-tightened the clamps. The blue silicon hose that came with the kit was a bit thin so had to tighten extra hard and end up de-threading clamps.

I had no other option at the time but to put the stock hose back on and everything was working again. So my question is has anyone else installed the nismo or after market hard pipe kit with similar problem? I think because the cast alloy hard pipe is not perfectly round, with a thin silicon hose it wasn't sealing properly. So should I get a thicker silicon hose and maybe stronger clamps? Clamps that came with the kit was Murray gold seal worm drive, and the blue silicon hose is about 3mm thick.

Any help is much appreciated.

Did you buy a copy kit? If you aren't running extreme amounts of boost then good quality hose clamps and silicone is fine to use. You can use T bolt clamps and better quality silicon to aid with holding the pressure but if the kit is put together correctly then there shouldn't be any issues.

Its got to be perfectly round if using good clamps with a bead all the way around it to stop the hose slipping off.

Get rid of those worn drive clamps too and get some proper clamps.

Im surprised that nismo would produce a piping kit that's out of round, the casting looks pretty off center and average, the bead does not go all the way around.

Are you sure its genuine? Who did you buy it from?

Post up more pics of your pipes and hoses showing the nismo logos too. Your pipe doesnt have a lip all the way around which is strange because when you look at the photos from this for sale thread you can see all pipes have a lip all the way around.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445298-nismo-intercooler-piping-kit-bnr34bcnr33-brand-new/

Edit: lol just read the for sale thread through to the end, looks like you bought the kit from that thread from nurvous?

Edited by Gts30t

Well im confused, googling more pics shows the shortest pipe, the one you have pictured does have a lip that doesnt run the whole way around. In any case i know other forum members are using this nismo kit without problems so it may just be an installation problem

Yeah, bought it from nurvous, not blaming him at all, just think I might have got a defective kit. Yeah it does have the lip, I think it's because the pipe is not true round and the silicon hose that came with the kit is a bit thin so it leaks air as it doesn't sealing properly..

It shouldn't matter if it's not perfectly round, as long as there are no dimples in it.

What's wrong with the stock piping? It is overkill for the stock power, and would probably support 600awkw at least.

It shouldn't matter if it's not perfectly round, as long as there are no dimples in it.

What's wrong with the stock piping? It is overkill for the stock power, and would probably support 600awkw at least.

Was trying to improve the response on the -5 turbos as tuner says stock rubber hose cause some lag, wasn't about power.

The whole Rubber hoses cause lag thing comes from some other other japanese cars, first that comes to mind is certain Mitsubishi, that have 1+m of rubber pipe on each end of the intercooler. GTR isn't that bad.

That being said I got a second hand Greddy kit for a good price and I can't complain. Can attach fittings to it for sensors too which is nice.

  • 4 weeks later...

Update:

Gave up and gave kit to mechanic to install, now running great with no leak, all he did was changed the broken clamps that I over tightened. Looks like it was my mechanical skills ( or lack of ) that was the issue. :rolleyes:

Then sends you the bill for something you could of fixed by paying no more than $30 for. Those style clamps are prone to breaking easily because of their shitty design. If over tightened or adjusted incorrectly, which most people tend to do, the mechanism tends to break.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...