Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On carsales the 33's range from $15-35k which is almost 32 price range with the higher priced ones being advertised for a long time.

34's are no less than $45k for the lower end and some of those I wouldn't even bother looking at.

I do agree few years back some dipped to the low $40's but not as of late, haven't really been all that many 34's really.

Could sell your 33 now for $30k also if it was clean.

i'm a bit of a stickler when i scope carsales for 32's to compare mine to have a price in my head of how trends are going and i've rarely seen many that i'd consider clean.

too many poeple have had time to play with it, usually cheap bolt ons, gauge this, gauge that...etc

I've tracked a few seemingly good value R33s, IMO they are extremely slow sellers

There are 2 good buys on the market ATM (in my eyes) for 33's;

1. $24,000 Series 3 ~300kw

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459263-series-3-r33-gtr-for-sale-melbourne/

2. $20,000 Series 1 - Claimed 78,000 kms - KN6 Grey, stock

post-55803-0-26543600-1442387674_thumb.jpg post-55803-0-89169200-1442387673_thumb.jpg

Edited by squareznboxez

No way are 33s going up and 34s going down lol.
33s are holding steady but take forever to sell. Cheap examples start around 14-15k in WA at least.
34s in WA start around 55+ and that'll get you a white or silver example.

Going to ask owner as to why rear quarter was painted?

Previously I scraped my 33 GTR against a wall parking.. So that quarter had to be repainted....

Edited by 10 4

No way are 33s going up and 34s going down lol.

33s are holding steady but take forever to sell. Cheap examples start around 14-15k in WA at least.

34s in WA start around 55+ and that'll get you a white or silver example.

Going to ask owner as to why rear quarter was painted?

Previously I scraped my 33 GTR against a wall parking.. So that quarter had to be repainted....

Agreed with the 34R comment. Have a look on Carsales - There are 17 BNR34's currently for sale, all averaging 50K plus.... Don't know where this rumor of them loosing value has come from

you have more run down 34's that will get on the market (they were around and now most are gone, this was only last year) I saw 3 in the 30's.

Yes the ones that are pristine will fetch the appropriate coin. 2009 was in the 60's and upward for a 34 GTR. Now you are looking at 40's and 50's.

So as more not so good ones hit the market it will be harder to keep a stable market.

Maybe you think I mean they have depreciated over night, yet in reality I mean over a long time and who knows what will happen once the 35 dips below the 100k.

  • Like 1

Yeah been following GTR prices, lowest are essentially 90's high km 09's with some 11' models around the $130k mark.

I've seen what Hadouken is talking about, there was a period where there was many more r34 gtr's and some less desirable ones were asking around $40k but that's gone up since then. $45-50k is the new 40k.

Was surprised there wasn't an abundance of r34 gtr's actually. only 2 in MP and not a great variety of models either (nur, altho there are 2 n1's... go figure)

Yeah 35s are dropping but are steady at 90 ish (aka lots to choose from at 90 so can be had cheaper).
F360s are on the up.
F355s already gone.

996 GT3 already gone.
NSX, gone in Europe, here still ok.

R34 GTR going up in Japan, here still around 45 for silver/white early not great examples.
There was a period yeah of high km crappy ones for low 40s but I think those are gone?

lol yeah, 360's commanding GTR money, despite the brand appeal, I don't think I'd buy one personally.

GT3's 04's 07's all come and go quickly. 04's around GTR money but I really like the 07's - harness and cage? yes please.

Yeah low 40's have come and gone. Now it's $50-60k for 34 gtr's just like $25-30k for bnr32's, i dont really follow 33's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...