Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK for shits and giggles I enquired about this...

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3540905

Started talking to the guy on FB. Seems really friendly and helpful.

Assuming it would be a shitbox I started grilling him about how it's obviously been crashed etc.

He's tells me not in the time he's had the car (6yrs) and that he can't see signs of it having been hit... ok weird. "I tried to find the cleanest stock one I could".

Questioned the guards, bonnet, and front bar, boot.

He tells me, the bonnet came on the car, the guards he had made up (fibreglass but apparently really good quality, google tells me the nismo z tune guards are even fibre glass and only the actual z tune had CFRP guards).

The boot he had painted because he likes the look. Front bar and spoiler have been sold as he was not planning on selling the car. A top scret replica front diffuser is there as are the stock mirrors and guards.

He tells me the car also has a PFC (not listed on the ad), tuned for 240kw with stock turbos etc (1.2bar) as that's all he wanted.

Rims are also genuine.

I ask for some more interior photos - see gallery it's easily cleaner than the QLD car and not the existence of v-spec sensors on this apparently non v-spec car (i know you can add those sensors later indivudally and reconfigure the MFD or go the nismo MFD way)

He's getting me a VIN so I can do some digging and confirming K's etc.

He tells me underside is quite clean and nothing like the car i showed him and the only rust on the car is the two radiator tabs and that's why he showed me those.

I'm starting to think this could be a good cheap base to work off, spray the front bar, bonnet, boot, re-add spoiler (A mate of mine is an excellent spray painter with a business etc), get a rear diffuser and fit top secret replica front. -9s, injecotrs, pump, cams/gears and retune.

Am I crazy? OF course I would inspect for signs of crash damage, but if you could get this cheap and the k's and condition checked out...

http://imgur.com/a/FZIjK

Edited by ActionDan

Turbos seem to be about 1500-2k on the gtr group, injectors 500, fuel pump 200 or so and afms 4-500? 3k or so then a bit more if i wanted cams and gears, gears alone are bugger all.

Maybe 4k in parts there, rear diffuser is expensive 1500-1800 so i would just sit on that til i found one cheap.

The paint work would cost me the cost of the paint and some beers.

If you got the car for 40, spent 7 or so, that doesn't seem too bad?

The QLD car was going to be 46k with the spares so it would have come out cheaper but with all that rust to deal with and 55000 more ks (if the ACT car is genuine, wont surprise me if not).

Edited by ActionDan

8-10k if starting from scratch I think?

This has EBC, PFC and "full hks exhaust mines dump pipes" already.

I would be "guessing" to say that if it has dumps and an HKS exhaust it likely has fronts and cats done but fair point as that's extra cost, neither of which are that expensive.

Already has ATS clutch as per the ad,

Cam gears are cheap.

Tune is a valid point, I'm not sure if there's a 4wd dyno here so would likely get Chris at RacePace to tune it, when I spoke to him last he said tunes for adding mods like that aren't too bad, 4hrs etc, so less than 1k. I know some local tuners but the dyno access is the issue, one of the 4wd shops might have one but they get pissy about letting people use them.

I can do all the labour required (not painting but that's mates rates).

Edited by ActionDan

Dan that's a bit of a hidden gem imho.
Many won't have even considered because of the boot/bumper.

I personally would go stock guards, bumpers etc but that's me.

Leaves you a LOT of wiggle room to do things how you want. And you can play with cars again (aka hunt for parts etc)

DO IT

I thought that to switch R34 into RWD mod required bleeding the ATTESA system afterwards as it needs t be depressurized or something?

Didn't think it was as simple as dropping a fuse like the 32.

"I can do all the labour required".

I've fitted turbos before. Is it a shit job? Yes, but I'm capable of it. I've tuned (cheating as its only SAFC and SITC combo and some cam gears), aligned, and done all the upgrades on my track car plus all the service and repair of anything else I've had in the past including replacing a blown headgasket in the track car.

Swapping out a TT setup will be balls, but I'll get there when the time comes.

Dan that's a bit of a hidden gem imho.

Many won't have even considered because of the boot/bumper.

I personally would go stock guards, bumpers etc but that's me.

Leaves you a LOT of wiggle room to do things how you want. And you can play with cars again (aka hunt for parts etc)

DO IT

I'm wondering this too. inspection and VIN review will tell me more so not getting my hopes up.

I like the Z tune guards, bonnet and bumper combo - once colour coded. Plus when I run off the track and smash up the front bar I won't cry as much knowing it was FRP.

I have the track car to play with so really I'm not looking to play with something else and don't get enough time as it is, but I'm not willing to drop 60-70 to get a fully done one how I want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...