Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm trying to determine what the wires off my speed sensor are. I've got a Black wire with a White stripe, and a Grey wire with a Red stripe. They both go through to the back of the speedo cluster and I'm really trying to figure out which one to tap into to get my speedo corrector working.

Also, is there anywhere to get a wiring diagram for a S1 C34 Stagea?

Cheers,

- Lance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459603-c34-speed-sensor/
Share on other sites

If you have just two wires to worry about just cut one and hook it up and if that doesn't work cut the other. Can you take a pic of the back of the cluster and post it up or PM it to me?

I have a copy of the service manual but its in Japanese. I have copies of 5 pages relating to the speedo and if you PM me your address I'll post them to you (I am too tired to scan them just now).

I fitted one of those correctors to me c34 as well (inaccurate speedos bug me), I just did it behind the dash...sorry, I didn't take pics.

But on the rear of the dash it does mark which track is the speed in, which you can trace to the plug and then intercept the wire in the loom.

I've tried the process of elimination Bob, but neither seem to bring any joy.... Which seems weird. I think I'm having issues with the actual module now (even though I purchased a second one just to make sure it wasn't that)

post-106462-0-99588600-1442135669_thumb.jpg

Duncan, the plan is to mount it behind the cluster and splice it into the loom there. I don't suppose you remember if there was anything funny about setting it up initially?

Cheers,

- Lance

well actually I do remember something funny, but didn't mention because I think it was a red herring. And it was about 10 years ago. Basically I remember I reset it multiple times and it didn't flash the way it was meant to. But because I don't remember anything about the details, and I never knew what the issue is I don't think that helps :blink:

I've tried the process of elimination Bob, but neither seem to bring any joy.... Which seems weird. I think I'm having issues with the actual module now (even though I purchased a second one just to make sure it wasn't that)

attachicon.gifIMG_1687.JPG

Duncan, the plan is to mount it behind the cluster and splice it into the loom there. I don't suppose you remember if there was anything funny about setting it up initially?

Cheers,

- Lance

Lance it seems to me that interrupting the circuit at the screw on the back of the speedo is still the best way. I am sure you have worked out how the spacer and tabbed washer will achieve that and you just have to work out which screw. If you look on the pic of the GTR cluster (which is quite different - especially without all the auto lights) you can see some Japanese characters next to the speedo signal and I wonder if you can see those same characters on your cluster (the photo is not clear enough for me to read).

Good to know that it's not just me having a problem setting it up, Duncan. I've emailed Jaycar in the hope that someone will know what's happening and steer me in the right direction.

I've pored over the back of that speedo, Bob, and I cannot find those same characters on the back of my speedo. I've even painstakingly traced the track from the pin, all the way through and no where does it have a screw intercepting it.

Cheers,

- Lance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...