Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Restrictors ?

Wyn

By Wyn,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Wyn Contributor

Wyn

Posted
Posted

The motor I've received looks like they've been removed, so can someone confirm 100% if the 2 factory 2mm oil restrictors in the upper face of the block have any sort of check valve in or below them to stop the oil from flowing back when the motor is turned off?

Are the restrictors just pressed into empty oil way feeds with nothing below them?

One site says yes and must not be removed, but am also told nothing below them so no problem if removed and replaced?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459798-oil-restrictors/
Share on other sites
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

No Czech valve.

Some people take out factory ones and tap in new ones. Others leave factory ones in and just hit new ones in over standard ones.

I left factory in and just hit my new (1.2mm and blank) ones into place. No oiling issues at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459798-oil-restrictors/#findComment-7605931
Share on other sites
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Blanked rear. Stock RB30E pump shimmed. Neo head. Fuel cell foam in both cam covers and enlarged drains.

I do not get a single drop of oil out of my cam covers. Not even an oily film inside the hose. That includes 7krpm track sessions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459798-oil-restrictors/#findComment-7606223
Share on other sites
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted (edited)

So does it not make the top end run a bit dry when on idle and cruise considering stock is 2mm, in another thread someone mentioned after blanking the rear they developed a noise which might of been from it running a bit dry at the back, but im not sure that's enough evidence having only one person out of probably alot who havn't had issues.

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459798-oil-restrictors/#findComment-7606450
Share on other sites
Wyn Contributor

Wyn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

XK, How does the 2.6 get away with only the one feed and the other blanked ?

Angry, From what I gather those running hydraulic lifters (GTST head) need to retain a larger oil feed to keep the lifters pumped.

A Neo being solid lifters doesn't require as much, aka RB26 style feed with one blanked

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459798-oil-restrictors/#findComment-7606544
Share on other sites
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have an RB30 with Nitto pump and use 2 x 1mm restrictors, no blank, by blanking one off you creat a air pocket under it

With the 26 head used, the 26 block has the rear one plugged factory so on 30 blocks using the 26 head you plug the rear one, Nissan sell the solid plug for around $5.

I never put the new restricor over the old one on a rebuild, in most cases the engine may have a history of a spun bearing, crud collects under the factory restictor so i run a self tapped screw into it and used a shifter under the head of the screw and knock it out so i can clean under the stock restrictor.

You would be surprised how much crap is under it.

photo(21)

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459798-oil-restrictors/#findComment-7606545
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Phat_33R Newbie

Phat_33R

Posted
Posted

Depends on pump and use

Haha yeah i have that exact link and printed out earlier today.. im using an N1 pump will be mostly street and odd track day so i thought blanking rear and 1.5mm in front would be ideal as stated. Will have extended baffled sump also and already have mines baffled rocker covers with custom baffled catch can (currently on my 26) aswell as getting the rear drain/vent on the rear of the head.. just wanted to see who would second my thought. Seeing that 26 factory is blocked rear and 2mm in the front
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459798-oil-restrictors/#findComment-7728689
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Haha yeah i have that exact link and printed out earlier today.. im using an N1 pump will be mostly street and odd track day so i thought blanking rear and 1.5mm in front would be ideal as stated. Will have extended baffled sump also and already have mines baffled rocker covers with custom baffled catch can (currently on my 26) aswell as getting the rear drain/vent on the rear of the head.. just wanted to see who would second my thought. Seeing that 26 factory is blocked rear and 2mm in the front

Forget the rear "drain" on the head - waste of time, money and space.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459798-oil-restrictors/#findComment-7728784
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...