Jump to content
SAU Community

Help! Enkei Rpf1 On R33 Skyline

georgekappa
 Share

Recommended Posts

georgekappa Newbie

georgekappa

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, just bought some ENKEI RPF1 18x9.5 +38 all around to find they don't fit on the front but fit perfect on the back.

The back of the wheel is scraping against the front brake calipers stopping the wheel from rotating.

I tried 8mm spacers, still wasn't enough. Tried 20mm bolt on spacers and that poked WAY too much it looked ridiculous. No idea what to do at this point. I really don't want to sell them as it will be such a hassle to get new ones etc.

any suggestions?

post-141345-0-52250200-1443078991_thumb.jpg

post-141345-0-65548600-1443079026_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459934-help-enkei-rpf1-on-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

But but but but.....I'm trying to work out how they can be rubbing the back of the spokes on the caliper faces. This is not a reasonable situation.

Fact 1. RPF1s (17x8 +35 or 38 or whatever it is) fit on my R32 against R33 calipers (not that it should matter much, but R33 calipers will obviously sit radially a little further away from the axis than R32 ones would).

Fact 2. I've never sen other RPF1s not fit a Skyline under similar circumstances.

Fact 3. RPF1s should all have about the same thickness of material in the hub section. This is the material thickness that determines whether the wheel will clear the caliper face.

Observation 1. The wheel in the OP's photo appears to have a LOT thinner hub section than any other RPF1 I have ever seen. I would guess that some retard has machined a f**ktonne of material off the hub section.

If all the above is true, run away. Do not sell them (because that would be wrong). Do not try to use them with spacers, because that would be stupid if they have been molested.

georgekappa Newbie

georgekappa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah put them up last night sold them this morning for $1800 which is roughly what i paid.. Time to look for a new set of the same wheels.. :(

So im guessing i need a +15 to +25 offset and that should fit perfect?

What forum section should i post a WTB thread in for these?

R31 drift pig Experienced

R31 drift pig

Posted
Posted (edited)

They would have gone on with a bit of work. $1700 -$1800 is the going rate new here in aus. I bought mine in from the us for under $1500 delivered, but the dollar was better. And mine are the widest RPF1's available.

I have 18x9.5+15 WITH a 25mm spacer up front, and 18x10.5 +15 rear, now has a 35mm rear spacer. with 25mm front and 35mm rear fenders. But ran it as a street car like that for a couple of years.

030.jpg

031.jpg

They won't fit on a gtst.

When you put a 20mm spacer on that would have made the wheels a +18. Now imagine another 3mm out from there.

You need 8" upfront.

they WILL fit on a GTST. You just need to mod the guards. I ran rolled flared OEM Metal for a while, and then when to origin +25mm FRP Fenders. Your wheel alignment also plays a major part in it. Also tyre sizing.

10744884_10203677194142648_1617544223_n.

But but but but.....I'm trying to work out how they can be rubbing the back of the spokes on the caliper faces. This is not a reasonable situation.

Fact 1. RPF1s (17x8 +35 or 38 or whatever it is) fit on my R32 against R33 calipers (not that it should matter much, but R33 calipers will obviously sit radially a little further away from the axis than R32 ones would).

Fact 2. I've never sen other RPF1s not fit a Skyline under similar circumstances.

Fact 3. RPF1s should all have about the same thickness of material in the hub section. This is the material thickness that determines whether the wheel will clear the caliper face.

Observation 1. The wheel in the OP's photo appears to have a LOT thinner hub section than any other RPF1 I have ever seen. I would guess that some retard has machined a f**ktonne of material off the hub section.

If all the above is true, run away. Do not sell them (because that would be wrong). Do not try to use them with spacers, because that would be stupid if they have been molested.

Fact 3 is incorrect. The spokes taper differently as they get wider. Many brands of wheels do this. Commonly referred to as a "FACE" Offset is a part of the equation, but not all of it. My 9.5's and 10.5's taper differently.

Had to sell them had no other options, sorry only saw all these comments now. Dont have any other pics but yeah was a very strange situation.

Like i said specs were 18x9.5 +38 all around

I Previously ran Enkei ABC Exclusive wheels in 18x9.5 +35 and 18x10.5 +35.

I actually still have them. They run a more concave face, therefore allowing more calliper clearance.

2012-10-24182728.jpg

There are plenty of people running wider and lower offset wheels than what you're suggesting.

You really need to consider all of the following, not just a width and offset and thats it.

- Width

- Offset

- Wheel Face tyre - some offer more or less room on the face for calliper clearance. Enkeis are generally pretty good with clearance,

- Tyre Size

- Alignment

- Ride Height

- Spring Rates

TBH, you could have just gone with a 10mm longer wheel stud and a 10mm slip on, or a 15mm bolt on, or a 20 and more camber, for every degree of negative camber you run, the too of the wheel moves in 5mm (Generally)

Edited by R31 drift pig
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...