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I know this question has been asked plenty of times on here already and I've tried majority of the tips and suggestions made in other posts with no luck so far.

I've had squealing brakes since I bought my 96 S2 R33 GTST about 6 months ago. First thing I did was take it to the mechanic to have all 4 rotors machined and brand new bendix pads on all 4 corners (Can't confirm if they are ultimates or not, he told me they'd remove the titanium strip before putting them in, not sure if only the ultimate pads have this?). This cost me a fortune but I also wanted the mechanic to have a bit of a look over the car to check for any serious issues - which luckily there weren't!

About a week later the squeal started coming back, I took it back to the mechanic and he said there weren't any problems with the pads but instead they could put some shims in which they wanted another $400 to do. I tried some of that red anti squeal CRC stuff to see if I could fix it myself, I thought this had done the trick but about another week later the pistons had worn through it and were touching the metal of the pads again, my pads sounded like they were screaming - so horrible to hear! I decided to buy some of those universal shims that you cut to size and stick to the back of the pads. Surprisingly these didn't work at all, squeal is still as bad as ever.

I have no idea what else to try, I'm considering buying new bendix ultimate pads and giving them a go but feel that could be a waste of money. Does anyone have any idea of what could be causing this? The squeal is so loud it not only hurts the ears of everyone in a 20km radius, it's super embarrasing and is turning me off driving the car - so needless to say, this needs to be sorted out soon!

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I've roughed them up with 60 grit sandpaper both times I had to pull them out for the anti squeal stuff and the shims I put in. Seems ok for about 15 minutes or so then the squeal comes back. I'm now at the point where I don't know if I should be replacing the pads or trying to source the genuine shims for it.

The pads still have about 90% left on them and I'd probably end up replacing them with bendix ultimates which I've heard mixed reviews about. I just don't see how the shims can make all the difference if I've got the universal shims on there now which have done absolutely nothing

if they are bendix pads, they'll squeal no matter what. ive had mine in now (ulitmates) for over a year now, and reversing they squeal, cold braking they squeal. they only time they don't squeal is when they've warmed up a bit driving moving forwards - still squeal when warm reversing though.

i've got a set of the QFM's waiting to go in & an on car disk machine when i get some cash together for it.

Bendix pads are horrible, and the Bendix CT don't stop. I had those pads in the daily Corolla and they crumbled to bits so I contacted Bendix and they sent me a free sent of Bendix Heavy Duty.

Just God awful pads.

No matter what I put in my car, nothing got rid of the squeal. Variety of pads, machining, that weird brake anti noise shit, shims, no shims and I still have squeal when coming to a stop. Edges are chambered off, all components were wire wheel cleaned. I bought new retaining clips. I bought new shims. I tried soft shims that Remsa pads come with.

The annoying thing is my squeal comes from my rear passenger and SOMETIMES front passenger. That's it.

With the shims, I think the ones which sit between the pad and caliper are crucial to noise. Most pads have dampened shims stuck on the back which is great but the two shims on each end of each pad are important. I've lost mine.

Those sumitomo calipers have a spring loaded plate that fits between the pins to push down on the pads.

Make sure you bend them a bit to retension them as they loose their ability to do so with use and heat, this allows the pads to freely bounce around and vibrate under braking which can also cause noise.

  • Like 1

So I put the shims in this afternoon and they still squeal as bad as ever! I have to have narrowed it down enough now to assume it's the bendix pads that are in there.

I'm going to start looking for a new set - probably one of the ones you guys have suggested. Is there anywhere in Brisbane that sells them preferably around the city or will I have to order online?

Thanks I'll check them out!

GTRPSI - Just how tight does the spring loaded plate have to be? It sits in there quite firm, I can pull the bottom pin out by just pushing down on the bottom of the plate with my finger to relieve the tension. Is this what it should be like or should it be so tight that it gets to the point where I need tools to push the plate in?

Fingers is fine, tighter the better.

On a side note i replaced my pads and rotors on my FG Turbo Ute on Saturday with J hook Slotted rotors and 900 degree rated EBC Yellow stuff pads.

Getting noise from one rear side and the opposite front side, this is normal till 1000Km has been clocked up so the pads can bed in correctly.

Happened To me on this ute and my old BA XR8 with genuine Brembo pads, EBC Red Stuff, TRW and Bendix pads, they all need time to settle in, most cases once the 1000Km mark is passed there are no noises what so ever.

On the GTR with your normal Turbo Skyline Sumitomo calipers, Honda S2000 and the wife BA i never had a single sound from new regardless of the pads i ran.

Whatever you do, give the pads time to bed in correctly, this may take up to 1000Km for them to settle in.

I've probably done around 3 or 4 thousand K's on them now so they've had plenty of time to bed in. I keep hearing plenty of good things about EBC pads so I'm considering getting a set of those, just want the squeal to stop!! I have the sumitomo calipers, what colour would you recommend for a street driven 33 with the occasional mountain run every now and then? Redstuff?

Also would I need to run the stock shims with them or better without?

I have run both EBC compounds heaps of times.

The reds are rated to 650, very low dust and extremely gentle on rotors, good for fast street use.

Yellows are rated to 900, average dust, a little more aggressive on rotors but wont tear them apart, fast street use and track use.

For the wifes daily i run Reds, I like my mountain/high speed runs so all my cars are on yellows with EBC BF307 brake fluid which is exactly the same as the Motul RBF600, make sure you flush and run a high temp type fluid with the yellows as they will boil the fluid quickly.

Really depends on how hard you push on the mountain run, but i will say the Yellows hunker the car down really well with no sign of fade..

Also today i noticed my brake noise is almost gone, yesterdays Dandenong mountains run (and fwy high speed stops) did a good job to bed the pads in, probably needs another day or 2 of driving to complete it.

If you have shims use them.

Edited by GTRPSI
  • 2 months later...

Those shims between brake pad n caliper piston can get from nissan and kudos motorsport also get one on top the curvey one on all four wheels. I had same problem changed calipers, pads, rotors n was squeeling. Got my hands on this lubricant amd put it on the shim where it touches the brake piston the squeel went away for good. post-63281-14523382399945_thumb.jpg i used the small one then stocked up and got the big one off ebay

I ended up buying remsa pads for the front from brakes direct and put them in without shims or brake lube as that's that the guy recommended. Squeal was as worse as ever.

Pulled it apart again a couple of weeks ago and used bendix grease on all 4 corners and fitted the stock shims back in. Squeal has gone! For now...

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