Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking for a bettter option to obtain more accurate caster adjustment than using offset bushes in the alloy front lower control arms on an R34 GTR.

Has anyone tried fitting an R33 GTR lower control arm, with an adjustable castor/tension rod to an R34?

It seems the only other option is using Ikeya arms which are not only expensive but also clearly a modificaiton that will attract police attention if the car is ever inspected.

No the lower front control arm on the R34's are a cast alloy item and are not adjustable.

The R33 arms are a 2 piece part, with a control arm that anchors the hub to the K-frame, and has a tension/castor adjustment rod.

I just don't want to be the first to attempt this.. so I'm looking for some info from someone that has already done it.

It seems that the Nismo Circuit Link system uses what appears to be an R33 control arm, but I cant find any information to confirm if the part is the same.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/lb/pdf/bnr34_1.pdf

So it only took 4 days or research but I have found the answer in the form of a Nismo upgrade part that is both R33 and R34 GTR compatible.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-circuit-link-set-skyline-bcnr33-bnr34-wgnc34.html

50534-8_13.jpg

50534-9_13.jpg

$330 for a left or right side box setup of R33 GTR control arms that have a little more welding done on them, then painted silver and a Nismo sticker is added.

From RHD Japan:

The NISMO Circuit Link Set Skyline BCNR33 BNR34 WGNC34 includes the front upper link and the front transverse link. Circuit Link Sets are sold separately as a left side set or a right side set. The items are more rigid than the OEM units and are a great upgrade when fine tuning the suspension of your vehicle. The Circuit Link Set proves to be most useful when used for circuit racing to improve cornering and reduce the understeering characteristics of your vehicle. This is done by the change in suspension geometry (high caster and negative camber). Please remember that these sets are sold separately by sides. If a full set is needed please add two (2) to your shopping cart and specify. If only a certain side is needed, please add one (1) to your shopping cart and specify which side. For a quick overview, please click View All Pictures, see the bottom images. This item is numbered 1 on the first picture, the Skyline GT-R R33. Please Note, this part may be numbered differently on your model, please refer to pictures. Nismo is the best for anything Nissan and is the top choice of all major Nissan tuners out there! Upon purchasing please state the car from the compatibility list that you would like to have the NISMO Circuit Link Set for. Get this and all your JDM at RHDJapan!!

So my solution is going to be to get 2 R33 GTR Control arms, 2 x Hardrace R33 Caster rods, and adjustable upper control arms. All with rubber bushes so it will be a nice and streetable setup with a high degree of adjustment. The addition of roll center spacer adjusters will complete the setup. Complete setup is costing $600.

Don't know how directly this applies to you but I have the equivalent arm from Nismo in an R32 GTR part. The only difference between the Nismo and the Nissan part (other than the colour) is the outside bolt hole (on the left of the first photo) is drilled offset on the Nismo item and centred on the Nissan one. This gives you a few mm longer affective arm length for some more camber and trackwidth. If you care not for those things just go buy a stock Nissan set which second hand I imagine you would get change out of $50.

Yes thanks, I figured they just drilled them a little different. From all the pictures I've seen it is the same casting. Ironic that the nismo upgrade part for the BNR34 is to switch back to what is basically the BNR33 part...

Most Nismo upgrade parts (the suspension links etc) are just stock items with harder bushes or with slightly different lengths or drill locations. To the extent that I wouldn't bother with most of it. I only bought the stuff because I could not find the dimensional information I was after. Still have the castor rods sitting at home. I did like these more, however and will have to chase them up at some stage...

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-r32-adjustable-tension-rods-p-8629.html

  • 1 month later...

Nice write up djr81.

Mine has aftermarket suspension, rims and is lowered - after doing an alignment they said its still a tad bit out but nothing major. Seeing as it only gets driven on weekends its not a big deal.

But wanting to get perfect wheel alignment would you need to change upper and lower control arms? If so then there is the pain of if they are legal or not.

Did you end up getting the alignment you were after?

Update.

I've had some time to get stuck into the car again lately. I put in the R33 GTR lower control arms and hard race castor rods. Also had to replace a LH inner CV boot which I took care of yesterday.

Just waiting on camber bushes so I can replace the outer upper control arm bushes with superpro bushes and an eccentric offset pin.

I suspect I'll have to look at getting some roll centre adjusters as well, and possibly some different tie rod ends to eliminate bump steer.

  • 5 months later...

The main reason I wanted adjustability was because I have altered my K frame height.

This combined with having lowered the vehicle meant that the role centre of the car was thrown out the window.

Unless you have RB30 conversion and have spacer induced handling issues, and really want to correct it properly, I would recommend you replace your standard ones instead.

My final set up uses r33 Control arms, with adjustable castor rods, and 30 mm of roll centre adjustment achieve by custom laser cut spacers that I made.

I am probably going to go in for another wheel alignment in a month or two, raise the car 10 mm and remove 10 mm of roll Centre adjustment. Only because the car is difficult to get in and out of driveways.

Other than that the car handles great. It's not nervous at all at any speed.

  • Like 1

The main reason I wanted adjustability was because I have altered my K frame height.

This combined with having lowered the vehicle meant that the role centre of the car was thrown out the window.

Unless you have RB30 conversion and have spacer induced handling issues, and really want to correct it properly, I would recommend you replace your standard ones instead.

My final set up uses r33 Control arms, with adjustable castor rods, and 30 mm of roll centre adjustment achieve by custom laser cut spacers that I made.

I am probably going to go in for another wheel alignment in a month or two, raise the car 10 mm and remove 10 mm of roll Centre adjustment. Only because the car is difficult to get in and out of driveways.

Other than that the car handles great. It's not nervous at all at any speed.

GTRNUR, I have a problem with my alignment the front wheel is about 1.5 inch to front looks close to the front bumper. but you think this solution well cure my problem?

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...