Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fuel pump does making the priming noise though ? would it do that if it was seized ? i do actually have a spare fuel pump that i was going to put in my bluebird that i could possibly use if its not working.

also,why not the injector cleaner ? didn't think it could cause any harm but if can then i'll bin it lol

Probably best to take the injectors out and having them all serviced as well as replacing all the rubber fuel components as after 3 years of sitting there they would have all perished

  • Like 1

changing fuel lines sounds complicated lol i havent looked into it yet though. how much roughly to replace fuel lines ? and where to even get new fuel lines ?

got more research to do i think

Inspecting fuel lines would happen before considering changing them.

Where you are at now is you really need to prove that one or two things work (like the ECU!, the starter, the injectors, etc) and dismantle for inspection a number of things that might cause you trouble. Those might be to disconnect the fuel lines at the front and rear and blow some air and/or clean fuel through them to see what comes out. If horrible, consider redoing them. If clean, celebrate and move on to the next subsystem. Cooling system hoses, thermostat, cam cover gaskets, sump gaskets, vacuum hoses under the inlet manifold, make sure the turbos will spin, etc etc etc etc. These and lots of other things might be in a workable state or they might be clusterf**ked after sitting around for years. Better off checking first, while it doesn't matter if teh car is going and while you can have more than one thing disassembled for a while for convenience and access.

Really rather not part it out but if I can't get it started with or with out help from someone I'll consider it i guess.oh and the ecu gave me 2 fault codes. I think there were error 26 and 49 . that's for vipec ecu. I did look it up but I can't remember what they were to be honest and km not at home to check.i have a feeling the starter motor any so good. I accidentally cranked it last night, with no fuel:/ and it attempted to crank but it sounded like the battery was dying but I just charges it. Was like that when I put the battery in years ago. Didn't take much cranking to kill the battery. Maybe wrong battery for the car? I'm pretty sure my mum bought it years ago for me lmao. I watchs the battery gauge and it drops a decent amount when cranking. Could be an issue there?

BTW I actually bought this gtr off a guy on this forum. Can actually still be seen if searched. Not sure if allowed to post link to it on here or not? Or his user name to search for it for yourself.

It was new and it still didn't start. But my batter jumper charger will arrive Monday hopefully do that will give it more power. But if it's the wrong size battery or whatever then that would probably cause it to not start properly? I'll have a lot of tomorrow at the battery

Seriously man, considering you have little mechanical knowledge, lack of funds and have what sounds like a really run down GTR.

You would be better off selling it or parting it and starting with something fresher that's had a little bit more love.

Not having a dig at you, but more friendly advice.

  • Like 1

I'm not ready to sell it though. It wouldn't feel right without giving it a real shot of getting it going. And knowledge us gained through experienced lol can't expect to know something having never done it before. I'll learn about everything I need too

i havent tried much at all.i only just got motivated the other day when i randomly sat in it lol. now i cant stop thinking about. i tried it with the stock ecu plugged in and it still didnt start. my car doesnt have an afm but someone told me awhile ago that it wouldnt stop the car from starting with the stock ecu in. i always had a strong feeling that the fuses blew from the battery being connected wrong but i never had a multimeter.i only looked at the fuses and from memory they all look fine to me.but i'll check that when my multimeter arrives.

first thing i'll do is try hand turn the engine. i highly doubt it will be seized but needs to know for sure. then ill try for spark,then probably check fuel lines,injector plugs ,fuel pump etc.

i might take out the injectors tomorrow and take them to get flow tested and cleaned. how much will this cost? and do you have to go anywhere special or do most mechanics do this ?

i did a search and the first one that came up was lubemobile. really dont know how they good they would be. but for $163 this is what they offer :

  • Pressurised Cleaning through Injectors
  • Fine Mist Spray through Throttle Body
  • Fuel System Check
  • Tank Additive to clean supply side
  • Scan Tool Diagnostic Check
  • Road Test

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...