Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fuel pump does making the priming noise though ? would it do that if it was seized ? i do actually have a spare fuel pump that i was going to put in my bluebird that i could possibly use if its not working.

also,why not the injector cleaner ? didn't think it could cause any harm but if can then i'll bin it lol

Probably best to take the injectors out and having them all serviced as well as replacing all the rubber fuel components as after 3 years of sitting there they would have all perished

  • Like 1

changing fuel lines sounds complicated lol i havent looked into it yet though. how much roughly to replace fuel lines ? and where to even get new fuel lines ?

got more research to do i think

Inspecting fuel lines would happen before considering changing them.

Where you are at now is you really need to prove that one or two things work (like the ECU!, the starter, the injectors, etc) and dismantle for inspection a number of things that might cause you trouble. Those might be to disconnect the fuel lines at the front and rear and blow some air and/or clean fuel through them to see what comes out. If horrible, consider redoing them. If clean, celebrate and move on to the next subsystem. Cooling system hoses, thermostat, cam cover gaskets, sump gaskets, vacuum hoses under the inlet manifold, make sure the turbos will spin, etc etc etc etc. These and lots of other things might be in a workable state or they might be clusterf**ked after sitting around for years. Better off checking first, while it doesn't matter if teh car is going and while you can have more than one thing disassembled for a while for convenience and access.

Really rather not part it out but if I can't get it started with or with out help from someone I'll consider it i guess.oh and the ecu gave me 2 fault codes. I think there were error 26 and 49 . that's for vipec ecu. I did look it up but I can't remember what they were to be honest and km not at home to check.i have a feeling the starter motor any so good. I accidentally cranked it last night, with no fuel:/ and it attempted to crank but it sounded like the battery was dying but I just charges it. Was like that when I put the battery in years ago. Didn't take much cranking to kill the battery. Maybe wrong battery for the car? I'm pretty sure my mum bought it years ago for me lmao. I watchs the battery gauge and it drops a decent amount when cranking. Could be an issue there?

BTW I actually bought this gtr off a guy on this forum. Can actually still be seen if searched. Not sure if allowed to post link to it on here or not? Or his user name to search for it for yourself.

It was new and it still didn't start. But my batter jumper charger will arrive Monday hopefully do that will give it more power. But if it's the wrong size battery or whatever then that would probably cause it to not start properly? I'll have a lot of tomorrow at the battery

Seriously man, considering you have little mechanical knowledge, lack of funds and have what sounds like a really run down GTR.

You would be better off selling it or parting it and starting with something fresher that's had a little bit more love.

Not having a dig at you, but more friendly advice.

  • Like 1

I'm not ready to sell it though. It wouldn't feel right without giving it a real shot of getting it going. And knowledge us gained through experienced lol can't expect to know something having never done it before. I'll learn about everything I need too

i havent tried much at all.i only just got motivated the other day when i randomly sat in it lol. now i cant stop thinking about. i tried it with the stock ecu plugged in and it still didnt start. my car doesnt have an afm but someone told me awhile ago that it wouldnt stop the car from starting with the stock ecu in. i always had a strong feeling that the fuses blew from the battery being connected wrong but i never had a multimeter.i only looked at the fuses and from memory they all look fine to me.but i'll check that when my multimeter arrives.

first thing i'll do is try hand turn the engine. i highly doubt it will be seized but needs to know for sure. then ill try for spark,then probably check fuel lines,injector plugs ,fuel pump etc.

i might take out the injectors tomorrow and take them to get flow tested and cleaned. how much will this cost? and do you have to go anywhere special or do most mechanics do this ?

i did a search and the first one that came up was lubemobile. really dont know how they good they would be. but for $163 this is what they offer :

  • Pressurised Cleaning through Injectors
  • Fine Mist Spray through Throttle Body
  • Fuel System Check
  • Tank Additive to clean supply side
  • Scan Tool Diagnostic Check
  • Road Test

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...