Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fuel pump does making the priming noise though ? would it do that if it was seized ? i do actually have a spare fuel pump that i was going to put in my bluebird that i could possibly use if its not working.

also,why not the injector cleaner ? didn't think it could cause any harm but if can then i'll bin it lol

Probably best to take the injectors out and having them all serviced as well as replacing all the rubber fuel components as after 3 years of sitting there they would have all perished

  • Like 1

changing fuel lines sounds complicated lol i havent looked into it yet though. how much roughly to replace fuel lines ? and where to even get new fuel lines ?

got more research to do i think

Inspecting fuel lines would happen before considering changing them.

Where you are at now is you really need to prove that one or two things work (like the ECU!, the starter, the injectors, etc) and dismantle for inspection a number of things that might cause you trouble. Those might be to disconnect the fuel lines at the front and rear and blow some air and/or clean fuel through them to see what comes out. If horrible, consider redoing them. If clean, celebrate and move on to the next subsystem. Cooling system hoses, thermostat, cam cover gaskets, sump gaskets, vacuum hoses under the inlet manifold, make sure the turbos will spin, etc etc etc etc. These and lots of other things might be in a workable state or they might be clusterf**ked after sitting around for years. Better off checking first, while it doesn't matter if teh car is going and while you can have more than one thing disassembled for a while for convenience and access.

Really rather not part it out but if I can't get it started with or with out help from someone I'll consider it i guess.oh and the ecu gave me 2 fault codes. I think there were error 26 and 49 . that's for vipec ecu. I did look it up but I can't remember what they were to be honest and km not at home to check.i have a feeling the starter motor any so good. I accidentally cranked it last night, with no fuel:/ and it attempted to crank but it sounded like the battery was dying but I just charges it. Was like that when I put the battery in years ago. Didn't take much cranking to kill the battery. Maybe wrong battery for the car? I'm pretty sure my mum bought it years ago for me lmao. I watchs the battery gauge and it drops a decent amount when cranking. Could be an issue there?

BTW I actually bought this gtr off a guy on this forum. Can actually still be seen if searched. Not sure if allowed to post link to it on here or not? Or his user name to search for it for yourself.

It was new and it still didn't start. But my batter jumper charger will arrive Monday hopefully do that will give it more power. But if it's the wrong size battery or whatever then that would probably cause it to not start properly? I'll have a lot of tomorrow at the battery

Seriously man, considering you have little mechanical knowledge, lack of funds and have what sounds like a really run down GTR.

You would be better off selling it or parting it and starting with something fresher that's had a little bit more love.

Not having a dig at you, but more friendly advice.

  • Like 1

I'm not ready to sell it though. It wouldn't feel right without giving it a real shot of getting it going. And knowledge us gained through experienced lol can't expect to know something having never done it before. I'll learn about everything I need too

i havent tried much at all.i only just got motivated the other day when i randomly sat in it lol. now i cant stop thinking about. i tried it with the stock ecu plugged in and it still didnt start. my car doesnt have an afm but someone told me awhile ago that it wouldnt stop the car from starting with the stock ecu in. i always had a strong feeling that the fuses blew from the battery being connected wrong but i never had a multimeter.i only looked at the fuses and from memory they all look fine to me.but i'll check that when my multimeter arrives.

first thing i'll do is try hand turn the engine. i highly doubt it will be seized but needs to know for sure. then ill try for spark,then probably check fuel lines,injector plugs ,fuel pump etc.

i might take out the injectors tomorrow and take them to get flow tested and cleaned. how much will this cost? and do you have to go anywhere special or do most mechanics do this ?

i did a search and the first one that came up was lubemobile. really dont know how they good they would be. but for $163 this is what they offer :

  • Pressurised Cleaning through Injectors
  • Fine Mist Spray through Throttle Body
  • Fuel System Check
  • Tank Additive to clean supply side
  • Scan Tool Diagnostic Check
  • Road Test

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...