Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

uploading a video now.taking awhile. i took pic of it sitting at idle. it idled quite well, but when i put my foot on the accelerator slightly the revs would drop a bit and it didnt sound like it was enjoying it to much and hesitated but once revs got up over 2000rpm it wasnt too bad. i wouldnt call the engine running either..just started lol its something and better then it not starting i suppose post-14097-0-49749300-1446103275_thumb.jpg

Edited by deprived777

Going by the second video I'd say you've got a popped head gasket. Does it blow white smoke when you rev it? Looked like it was blowing white from that video. White=coolant entering combustion chamber.

Sounds dead average in the first video especially when it first fires. What is going on when you cranked it over, that noise was horrible.

when i was cranking it i had to pump on the accelerator to get it started. not sure why, would that be lack of fuel pressure ? or clogged fuel filter ? im changing that and oil etc. tomorrow .

probably still some old fuel in the tank too. it did blow a bit of white smoke but i could only see when my fiance video'd it. i did notice smoke when i looked behind me and revved it . cant rev it anymore due to stock ecu so cant do much till i get check the vipec ecu.

really struggled to start that time.first time i started it wasnt as bad

lmao i was thinking that too.really does sound like a lawn mower.it didnt sound like that in person though. it didnt sound all that bad in person once it was idling

if you watch the first video, at the end when i hit fuel cut at around 2500rpm you'll see smoke. i cant tell what colour it is personally.looks white to me

all coils are working with the stock ecu. i didnt try start it with the vipec since i knew it was only sparking on 1 or 2 cylinders. i changed all the spark plugs after i did the compression tests too.

derrr. I forgot you were running it with the stocker. Ignore me.

that's going to be a real bugger to rego if/when you get it running................if that's the way your going

I saw the front bumper/cooler area and thought much the same. No f**king way is it getting registered anywhere near like that.

i was going to put the stock twin turbo setup on it to pass rego lol but yeah i know it would be tough to get rego'd. i doubt its been engineered .how can i check ?

guy who had it before me had it on the road though.

i was going to change the turbo eventually anyway.dont want one that big. would prefer a low mount single turbo if it will fit

a lot of work and cost ahead for you

If it was engineered you would have received the certificate with purchase and it may have a mod plate

a lot of single turbo skylines on the road are not certified. They wait till they get booked

can you pm me the link on sau that you bought it from please

that's the exact answer i was hoping to hear lmao can't really test anything now untill battery arrives. was going to install my fpr but the screws threaded on the stock fpr . piece of shit screw driver !! know idea how im going to get that off. the fpr i got looks shit anyways i think i'll try for a refund :/

Get a refund. If there is anything wrong with yours I can send you an OEM fpr for free.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...