Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So while working on my r34gtt I had the intake manifold and runners off, I had rags in the intake ports in the head but nothing in the cooling jacket. I was stripping some wire when a piece of rubber insulation maybe 5mm wide and 10mm long fell into the head, the water port between cylinder 1 and 2 ..

After a few failed attempts to remove it, it can't even be seen now. It felt like it was going great downwards towards the thermostat but even last ditch attempt at blowing compressed air down there hasn't made it reappear. How harmful could this be?

I figure worst case it damage to water pump or block up a small water gallery.

Waterpump and thermostat are removed BTW post-90047-14458284639591_thumb.jpg

I'm in the wouldn't worry about it boat. Put it back together drive it. If it overheats start to worry then. If it runs fine but it still bothers you, flush the system after its been pressurised a few times. If it still bothers u after all that, light up a stick of dynamite and move on to your next car:)

Prob melt and seal up a leak ;)

Wouldn't worry about it, I bet millions of new cars come off production lines with insects and metal and other crap in their coolant, fuel, and even oil systems and nothing happens.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...