Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys i came across something wierd today building a rb25. I might be wrong here and wondering what you guys think. I have a block that was bored to 86.5 and i just bought a set of new cp pistons over sized for the bore. The machine shop had a piston so he could get the right clearance. The problem is the ring gaps look big like really big in the bore. The photos will show you guys what i mean. The gaps are like .064 in inch. Sorry my gauge isnt in mm. Damn yanks products. Lol

Im figuring that cp would have made it tight with room to adjust the gap.

post-37293-14459647025815_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14459647613356_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14459647631713_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14459647790442_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460636-ring-gaps-for-engine-builders/
Share on other sites

Wow that is big, I don't reckon I'd use them. What is the recommended gap?? its usually more like 0.006"- 0.008" or 6 to 8 thou - yours is 10 times that.

On the bright side rings won't bind, no matter what the heat!!!

I have done the math and figure ill need 1.75 mm bigger ring with a 86.5mm bore. Wow wonder if thats avalible. I notice that the part nber from cp is cnp 3.406 thats the actual sizing of the rings. So if i was to add 1.75mm which is .060 inch the size i would get would be 3.466

Wonder how that will work. At that size ill need to gap them myself. Im planing on going with an end gap of .010 or so for occasionally hitting some NOS. max boost of 25psi.

My big problem is i cant find a chart for cp pistons and the ring gapping or size option. I feel stuck.

Does anyone one of a way to address this??

Yes. Right now i cant remember the actual size i got. I will update tomorrow. Work was super busy and will contact cp piaton tomorrow. Will they be able to supply the rings. Custom size i guess.??

I guess what Cef33y is wondering is....Was the bore machined to the correct size for the piston you are using??? Was it accidentally overbored??? Wouldn't be the first time.

Specs would give you the piston dimensions, clearances, and the recommended bore size.

  • Like 1

Hmm. I thought it may have been bored wrong as well. I was just to busy today to do anything. Ok here is where i must admit im a bit weak. Most likely because im just being lazy. I at the time did to blocks in miami florida with guess who some Australian guys. They do work for the coast guards here in the states. Son does the heads and dad does the blocks. May be an honest mistake. Im going to buy a dial bore gauge tomorrow and check his work. Guess what cp pistons can out and cp pistons went back in. By no means i think its there fault i actually think its just a different batch of pistons by cp and im just doing a rebuild now. Noticing the difference. Damn why do i feel its a money thing now. Well. Best solution if i was.to guess woyld be to buy 1mm or 40thow over pistons and rebore it as 1mm is my personal max i would go. Damn. But before jumping the gun ill contact cp and measures the bore and see what they have to say. From my personal experience i think a new set of pistons is in order. 1mm or 40thow.over. damn i cant believe all this bs. Ill take my caliper to work tomorrow and measure the block. They may have mest up.

Anyone can teach me how to check bore to piston clearance. Using a v caliper. Damn and its for a friend not even mine. :(:(:(

Thanks i have watched a couple of videos. Please look at the spec sheet that came with the piston is the piston to cylinder wall clearance what im pointing at. ??? If so thats small. I would opp to go with .004

post-37293-14462132296216_thumb.jpg

Bore can be slightly bigger than suggested, .004" is fine.

Most cheap bore gauges wont distinguish between .0035" and .004" accurately. Get your machine shop to measure them in front of you at various points down the bore in the X and Y plane and note them.

Ring end gap depends on the boost and purpose of the engine, i wouldn't run .008" end gaps unless it was a very low boost tight daily driver.

If you turn up the boost and lay into it a bit aim for 16 to 20 thou with the latter based on serious power numbers.....60 thou, somethings not quite right.......

I'd put money on the bore size being too big for your pistons. I've never seen a set of CP rings that didn't need filing to get the gap right. You will probably find you have 12-16 thou at least, not 4.

Aftet i removed one piston took the rings off and insert it upside down to measure the difference from piston to cylinder wall clearance it seems to be close to 20 thou smaller. That would put me right about right if i use a 87mm bore piston but will never know. If the clearance is .004 and my caliper isnt to accurate when i wonder the caliper around in the bore i get like 86.9 thats very close to 87mm i feel the accuracy of the caliper is the problem maybe its a 87mm bore piston i need. Damn if thats the case thats a big mistake. Like a 1300 dollar mistake. Guess its better than assembling the motor to have it fail. Im glad i spot this. Im going to order a set of new pistons and rods and go from there.

Why do you need rods?

Pistons and rings I can understand.

This has the ring gaps you need for CP pistons and rings http://www.cp-carrillo.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=LjC4jLmI4Ls%3D&tabid=74

They also recommend around 8 thou, but others may have better knowledge of it than manufacturers specs or me??

It makes no sense to me to just buy pistons. As i rather save som cash and stock up on pistons by buying the rods and pistion combination. Thats all. I know that pistons are cheaper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...