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ROBO you got it in one its an upgrade clutch kit for the auto good for around 230-250rwkw

i blew my last auto 6 months after i bought the car, well i didn't blow just wore out the top two gear clutches, happens with auto once ya starting putting more power through it, the box gets weaker, so when i put a new gearbox in i replaced the clutches

i was gonna change to manual, but was $3500 was the best quote at the time found it for $2500 now, but i put another auto in and it cost me around $900 with everything thats including buying the box so i thought that was the best option, 2nd gear is wicked now under full throttle i pull it side ways for a good 1-2 secs if i don't change properly IE i drive it like a manual thats just me

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You won't get much with a cam gear, maybe 5rwkw!!  I hardly could pick the difference.
I noticed a difference! At the drags im breaking traction in the top of first gear when I launch which I wasn't before the Ex Cam Gear. I'm over it now tho and wanting that next mod :)

A cam gear will cost you about ~$160-180 delivered from Nengun/Greenline. Along with about 1.5hrs of workshop time and its a great cheap mod for less than $300.

Take a look:

cam-ba.jpg

i noticed the grunt increased mid-range and it seemed to have a lot more go.. its worthwhile doing.. and for the price especially. Seemed to idle a bit rougher after that, but that may have been the new tune. Unfortunately I didn't get a dyno read out to quantify anything in any proper terms.

I'm over it now tho and wanting that next mod

hahaa.. its a bit like that.. i got over the whole car, sold it, and now to build a fast one :)

obviously not anything ground breaking, but I just got my PowerFC installed and tuned and i am making 200 at the wheels at 1 bar - this is with 3" turbo back exhaust, ebc, FMIC, air POD and PowerFC. Injectors will be at limit now, so next up for engine stuff will be turbo+injectors+cam gear/shafts.

Its good insurance at anything around 200rwkw to replace the std factory pump (it could be getting a bit tired) and also to add a rising rate regulator to screw a few more kw out of the std injectors.

Remember if only one injector is struggling, (and this may not show up on your dyno analysis) and you are too close to 100% duty cycle, it could easily cost you an engine rebuild.

Hey there

Ive got an auto 96 series II that registered 273.6hp(203rwKw) at 11psi on shout-out mode

probably done more mods than some, cause I dont want to change the turbo or standard ECU

Trust MX cat-back

SS highflow cat

RSR front pipe with stock dump pipe

Apexi filter

TRUST V-SPL intercooler kit

SAFC-II

Greddy Profec B EBC

HKS 256 exhaust cam with cam gears

Bosch 910 external pump mounted inline without surge tank and malapassi FPR waiting to go in

Apexi boost gauge and TOYO RA-1 as well to complete the list

probably will buy a manifold, dump, and intake pipe later and see how much more power the standard turbo can make

good luck with your car though

Hey there

Ive got an auto 96 series II that registered 273.6hp(203rwKw) at 11psi on shout-out mode

probably done more mods than some, cause I dont want to change the turbo or standard ECU

Trust MX cat-back

SS highflow cat

RSR front pipe with stock dump pipe

Apexi filter

TRUST V-SPL intercooler kit

SAFC-II

Greddy Profec B EBC

HKS 256 exhaust cam with cam gears

Bosch 910 external pump mounted inline without surge tank and malapassi FPR waiting to go in

Apexi boost gauge and TOYO RA-1 as well to complete the list

probably will buy a manifold, dump, and intake pipe later and see how much more power the standard turbo can make

good luck with your car though

That's a very interesting approach, it proves that there is more than one way to skin a cat. Do you have progressive dyno results that you can post? I would really like to understand what makes up the increases. :cheers:

sorry SK, only did one dyno so far and I sorta put everything in reverse order,

EBC first, then SAFC, then FMIC, exhaust and cam last before finally going on dyno

from what I can tell the FMIC felt to make the most difference. I'll post my dyno sheet up soon.

Dont have the funds to change ECU or turbo so I thought I'll do everything else and see whats the maximum safe limit of the standard turbo

Im wondering about the auto trans though, should I start worrying about it?

To answer the questions about the unichip. I have one of these on my manual GTST and they work great. I haven't had any issues with it and I'm making 190RWK at 14psi with the standard turbo. I don't understand why you were told that u couldn't run an EBC with the unichip because that isn't true. I'm running a turbosmart E-boost. The unichip can control the boost if you want it to, however it should only be an option so you should be able to retain the Blitz EBC that you already have installed.

I'm not sure if you can get one for an auto though.....

well every one i have come to a bit of a stop in reaching 200rwkw i took my car along to a dyno day on saturday and it start to ping at 170kw at 6200 rpm boosted at 11psi. now could someone please tell me what this could be could it be injectors and fuel pump or more as yous all know its auto so its a bit hard to get a good ecu. so now i have the problem finding out what it could be so if any of yous have had this problem please let me know what yous have done to fix it well thanks for all ya help and i soon hope to reach 200rwkws after this minor hold up !

well every one i have come to a bit of a stop in reaching 200rwkw i took my car along to a dyno day on saturday and it start to ping at 170kw at 6200 rpm boosted at 11psi. now could someone please tell me what this could be could it be injectors and fuel pump or more as yous all know its auto so its a bit hard to get a good ecu. so now i have the problem finding out what it could be so if any of yous have had this problem please let me know what yous have done to fix it well thanks for all ya help and i soon hope to reach 200rwkws after this minor hold up !

Usually this is ignition timing related, but it is easy to tell if it was fuel related via the A/F ratios. If it was going lean then it will detonate. So, did you get an A/F ratio printout from the dyno day? If you did, it will be easy to tell whether it was ignition of fuel. :D

nah didn't get any a/f readings on the print out because it was power runs only i might take it back this week and get it dynoed the other time i had it dynoed it was on 12.5 the whole way so i dunno if it could changed i aint sure so i will take it and see if its not the a/f how can i fix this ?

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