Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,



So i bought a 2000 Stagea RSFourS (WC34 ), the last one in Canberra, and am loving it!


But with all cars, age has run it's course on a few bits of the car and some stuff needs fixing.


so i was looking for a bit of advice, any you guys can give would be greatly appreciated.



the major issue is the suspension, its cactus, the fronts are leaking and need replacing, and i was thinking of getting coil overs.


the research i have done suggests i have fork type suspension so i was thinking of getting these http://justjap.com/b...-type-3116.html


Has anyone used these before, or have advice on a better choice?



One of the other issues i have is that the drivers side mirror (mirrors are electric) at speeds above 90 or in high winds it begins to move and unset itself.


It appears to be the actual bodywork bit of the mirror, not the actual reflective mirror bit, as trying to move it with the electronic controller doesn't work.


​Which means i have to wind down the window and move it manually with my hand, has anyone had this sort of issue before? or know why it is happening or how to fix it?



Thanks guys, if anyone has any other tips or knows mechanics in Canberra they recommend, id really appreciate it.



(I attached some pics for those interested)


post-141702-0-13767100-1446716666_thumb.jpg

post-141702-0-47048600-1446716695_thumb.jpg

It could be the motors in the mirrors f**king up my mirrors don't close from high winds like yours but they don't open if I retract them I know you can get heaps of mirrors from wreckers but who knows the condition of the motors aswell. My suspension was shot to when I bought mine and I found a set of tein superwagon coilovers there awesome don't go low but good coilovers

Japanese Import Spares in SA have new motors for the mirrors. I'd be sitting down though when you look at the price.

The S2 mirror motors can be replaced, the S1 mirror motors can't. Both will fit on an RS Four S though.

Hey all, so an update.

I took it to AutoTech in Hume to get it looked over, some minor leaks (coolant and gearbox), front bushes and a bit of rust beginning to appear in the top of the strut towers.

However that's not the bad news, the bad news is that cyl4 has a compression issue, that they told me will eventually kill the engine, unless it is rebuilt.

I got rough quoted 7k for a rebuild, which was a bit of a shock, esp given its an 11k car.

I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine and some others and they suggested swapping in the RB26 engine, instead of getting this one fixed.

So i was wondering how hard that will be to do? im guessing it will be relatively easy as the Stageas came with them in some models (Autech), but appear to have little else changed (5 speed gear box still etc)

I was thinking that id also like to swap the front bar for the R34 GTR front, similar to this:

0f69df2a42287a49b39412c160534458.jpg

So i was thinking about getting a Half/Front cut, since then i get the front bar, side fenders, bonnet (though i have been told the stagea one should fit) as well as the cluster and wiring harness.

I have been struggling to find a place selling one in aus though, anyone know a place selling one, or could find one?

Has anyone got any experience with this engine swap, and do you guys reckon it will be worth it?

Thanks

Hii, There are plenty of good second hand Stagea RB25DET Neo Series 2 Engines about, If you wanted to put an R34 GTR Engine unit complete with all the engine wiring, ecu, pipes, hoses ect, Wow there is one on Ebay now in auction 2 days ago it was up to $19000us+, Mind Blowing, I couldnt believe the price, But Your Neo if it a manual engine puts out 220 kw out of the Factory, more grunt than the R32 gtr,206kw A good 25det neo will be your best bet $2500 to $4000, But make sure it has been compression test and garanteed before you buy one, I run Tein road & track adjustable damper, Hieght Adjustable Coil Over, Paid $800 for then second hand of a gtr 5 years ago now & they are still working fine. Hope this helps Jamind

MCA Blues are only $200 more than the BC's. MCA's are proven adjustable coilovers from the same company who has been on the wtac podium 3 years in a row, took out fastest rwd and 2nd fastest outright in pro class. Australian made, with Australian warranty, with a company who has a face.

How bad is the compression on cyl4? Get a second oppinion. Go see the blokes at techworkz or import parts canberra as they both know their stuff.

Beware that the front cut may not come with the bumper, lights etc that you want. if it does, it will cost you a hell of a lot more than 10 grand.

A bloke just sold his s2 with a 26 engine, if memory serves it was ~9 grand. So look at the cost vs resale.

You can buy a genuine 250/260rs for 15-20 grand and sell your s2.

Hey all, so an update.

I took it to AutoTech in Hume to get it looked over, some minor leaks (coolant and gearbox), front bushes and a bit of rust beginning to appear in the top of the strut towers.

However that's not the bad news, the bad news is that cyl4 has a compression issue, that they told me will eventually kill the engine, unless it is rebuilt.

I got rough quoted 7k for a rebuild, which was a bit of a shock, esp given its an 11k car.

I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine and some others and they suggested swapping in the RB26 engine, instead of getting this one fixed.

So i was wondering how hard that will be to do? im guessing it will be relatively easy as the Stageas came with them in some models (Autech), but appear to have little else changed (5 speed gear box still etc)

I was thinking that id also like to swap the front bar for the R34 GTR front, similar to this:

0f69df2a42287a49b39412c160534458.jpg

So i was thinking about getting a Half/Front cut, since then i get the front bar, side fenders, bonnet (though i have been told the stagea one should fit) as well as the cluster and wiring harness.

I have been struggling to find a place selling one in aus though, anyone know a place selling one, or could find one?

Has anyone got any experience with this engine swap, and do you guys reckon it will be worth it?

Thanks

What exactly is the compression issue? i.e. what are the compressions ?

Over here a good Neo engine is $2k so don't go rushing into a rebuild..

If you want an expensive hobby go ahead and spend $40k on your car. If you want a fast well handling Stagea take your time and buy one already done for way less than half that and sell your present car and be ahead $$$$

What exactly is the compression issue? i.e. what are the compressions ?

Over here a good Neo engine is $2k so don't go rushing into a rebuild..

If you want an expensive hobby go ahead and spend $40k on your car. If you want a fast well handling Stagea take your time and buy one already done for way less than half that and sell your present car and be ahead $$$$

The compression are:

1 155

2 155

3 155

4 120

5 155

6 160

The reason i mention is a new engine is that if im replacing it anyway, why not put something better in?

I intend to keep this car for a while, so im not really keen to try my luck buying another car.

I thought you were someone else when i first saw the picture.

Do you drive around condor much? I was in the silver stagea.

I live in theodore so you might see me driving around south side a fair bit,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...