Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,



So i bought a 2000 Stagea RSFourS (WC34 ), the last one in Canberra, and am loving it!


But with all cars, age has run it's course on a few bits of the car and some stuff needs fixing.


so i was looking for a bit of advice, any you guys can give would be greatly appreciated.



the major issue is the suspension, its cactus, the fronts are leaking and need replacing, and i was thinking of getting coil overs.


the research i have done suggests i have fork type suspension so i was thinking of getting these http://justjap.com/b...-type-3116.html


Has anyone used these before, or have advice on a better choice?



One of the other issues i have is that the drivers side mirror (mirrors are electric) at speeds above 90 or in high winds it begins to move and unset itself.


It appears to be the actual bodywork bit of the mirror, not the actual reflective mirror bit, as trying to move it with the electronic controller doesn't work.


​Which means i have to wind down the window and move it manually with my hand, has anyone had this sort of issue before? or know why it is happening or how to fix it?



Thanks guys, if anyone has any other tips or knows mechanics in Canberra they recommend, id really appreciate it.



(I attached some pics for those interested)


post-141702-0-13767100-1446716666_thumb.jpg

post-141702-0-47048600-1446716695_thumb.jpg

It could be the motors in the mirrors f**king up my mirrors don't close from high winds like yours but they don't open if I retract them I know you can get heaps of mirrors from wreckers but who knows the condition of the motors aswell. My suspension was shot to when I bought mine and I found a set of tein superwagon coilovers there awesome don't go low but good coilovers

Japanese Import Spares in SA have new motors for the mirrors. I'd be sitting down though when you look at the price.

The S2 mirror motors can be replaced, the S1 mirror motors can't. Both will fit on an RS Four S though.

Hey all, so an update.

I took it to AutoTech in Hume to get it looked over, some minor leaks (coolant and gearbox), front bushes and a bit of rust beginning to appear in the top of the strut towers.

However that's not the bad news, the bad news is that cyl4 has a compression issue, that they told me will eventually kill the engine, unless it is rebuilt.

I got rough quoted 7k for a rebuild, which was a bit of a shock, esp given its an 11k car.

I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine and some others and they suggested swapping in the RB26 engine, instead of getting this one fixed.

So i was wondering how hard that will be to do? im guessing it will be relatively easy as the Stageas came with them in some models (Autech), but appear to have little else changed (5 speed gear box still etc)

I was thinking that id also like to swap the front bar for the R34 GTR front, similar to this:

0f69df2a42287a49b39412c160534458.jpg

So i was thinking about getting a Half/Front cut, since then i get the front bar, side fenders, bonnet (though i have been told the stagea one should fit) as well as the cluster and wiring harness.

I have been struggling to find a place selling one in aus though, anyone know a place selling one, or could find one?

Has anyone got any experience with this engine swap, and do you guys reckon it will be worth it?

Thanks

Hii, There are plenty of good second hand Stagea RB25DET Neo Series 2 Engines about, If you wanted to put an R34 GTR Engine unit complete with all the engine wiring, ecu, pipes, hoses ect, Wow there is one on Ebay now in auction 2 days ago it was up to $19000us+, Mind Blowing, I couldnt believe the price, But Your Neo if it a manual engine puts out 220 kw out of the Factory, more grunt than the R32 gtr,206kw A good 25det neo will be your best bet $2500 to $4000, But make sure it has been compression test and garanteed before you buy one, I run Tein road & track adjustable damper, Hieght Adjustable Coil Over, Paid $800 for then second hand of a gtr 5 years ago now & they are still working fine. Hope this helps Jamind

MCA Blues are only $200 more than the BC's. MCA's are proven adjustable coilovers from the same company who has been on the wtac podium 3 years in a row, took out fastest rwd and 2nd fastest outright in pro class. Australian made, with Australian warranty, with a company who has a face.

How bad is the compression on cyl4? Get a second oppinion. Go see the blokes at techworkz or import parts canberra as they both know their stuff.

Beware that the front cut may not come with the bumper, lights etc that you want. if it does, it will cost you a hell of a lot more than 10 grand.

A bloke just sold his s2 with a 26 engine, if memory serves it was ~9 grand. So look at the cost vs resale.

You can buy a genuine 250/260rs for 15-20 grand and sell your s2.

Hey all, so an update.

I took it to AutoTech in Hume to get it looked over, some minor leaks (coolant and gearbox), front bushes and a bit of rust beginning to appear in the top of the strut towers.

However that's not the bad news, the bad news is that cyl4 has a compression issue, that they told me will eventually kill the engine, unless it is rebuilt.

I got rough quoted 7k for a rebuild, which was a bit of a shock, esp given its an 11k car.

I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine and some others and they suggested swapping in the RB26 engine, instead of getting this one fixed.

So i was wondering how hard that will be to do? im guessing it will be relatively easy as the Stageas came with them in some models (Autech), but appear to have little else changed (5 speed gear box still etc)

I was thinking that id also like to swap the front bar for the R34 GTR front, similar to this:

0f69df2a42287a49b39412c160534458.jpg

So i was thinking about getting a Half/Front cut, since then i get the front bar, side fenders, bonnet (though i have been told the stagea one should fit) as well as the cluster and wiring harness.

I have been struggling to find a place selling one in aus though, anyone know a place selling one, or could find one?

Has anyone got any experience with this engine swap, and do you guys reckon it will be worth it?

Thanks

What exactly is the compression issue? i.e. what are the compressions ?

Over here a good Neo engine is $2k so don't go rushing into a rebuild..

If you want an expensive hobby go ahead and spend $40k on your car. If you want a fast well handling Stagea take your time and buy one already done for way less than half that and sell your present car and be ahead $$$$

What exactly is the compression issue? i.e. what are the compressions ?

Over here a good Neo engine is $2k so don't go rushing into a rebuild..

If you want an expensive hobby go ahead and spend $40k on your car. If you want a fast well handling Stagea take your time and buy one already done for way less than half that and sell your present car and be ahead $$$$

The compression are:

1 155

2 155

3 155

4 120

5 155

6 160

The reason i mention is a new engine is that if im replacing it anyway, why not put something better in?

I intend to keep this car for a while, so im not really keen to try my luck buying another car.

I thought you were someone else when i first saw the picture.

Do you drive around condor much? I was in the silver stagea.

I live in theodore so you might see me driving around south side a fair bit,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...