Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,



So i bought a 2000 Stagea RSFourS (WC34 ), the last one in Canberra, and am loving it!


But with all cars, age has run it's course on a few bits of the car and some stuff needs fixing.


so i was looking for a bit of advice, any you guys can give would be greatly appreciated.



the major issue is the suspension, its cactus, the fronts are leaking and need replacing, and i was thinking of getting coil overs.


the research i have done suggests i have fork type suspension so i was thinking of getting these http://justjap.com/b...-type-3116.html


Has anyone used these before, or have advice on a better choice?



One of the other issues i have is that the drivers side mirror (mirrors are electric) at speeds above 90 or in high winds it begins to move and unset itself.


It appears to be the actual bodywork bit of the mirror, not the actual reflective mirror bit, as trying to move it with the electronic controller doesn't work.


​Which means i have to wind down the window and move it manually with my hand, has anyone had this sort of issue before? or know why it is happening or how to fix it?



Thanks guys, if anyone has any other tips or knows mechanics in Canberra they recommend, id really appreciate it.



(I attached some pics for those interested)


post-141702-0-13767100-1446716666_thumb.jpg

post-141702-0-47048600-1446716695_thumb.jpg

It could be the motors in the mirrors f**king up my mirrors don't close from high winds like yours but they don't open if I retract them I know you can get heaps of mirrors from wreckers but who knows the condition of the motors aswell. My suspension was shot to when I bought mine and I found a set of tein superwagon coilovers there awesome don't go low but good coilovers

Japanese Import Spares in SA have new motors for the mirrors. I'd be sitting down though when you look at the price.

The S2 mirror motors can be replaced, the S1 mirror motors can't. Both will fit on an RS Four S though.

Hey all, so an update.

I took it to AutoTech in Hume to get it looked over, some minor leaks (coolant and gearbox), front bushes and a bit of rust beginning to appear in the top of the strut towers.

However that's not the bad news, the bad news is that cyl4 has a compression issue, that they told me will eventually kill the engine, unless it is rebuilt.

I got rough quoted 7k for a rebuild, which was a bit of a shock, esp given its an 11k car.

I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine and some others and they suggested swapping in the RB26 engine, instead of getting this one fixed.

So i was wondering how hard that will be to do? im guessing it will be relatively easy as the Stageas came with them in some models (Autech), but appear to have little else changed (5 speed gear box still etc)

I was thinking that id also like to swap the front bar for the R34 GTR front, similar to this:

0f69df2a42287a49b39412c160534458.jpg

So i was thinking about getting a Half/Front cut, since then i get the front bar, side fenders, bonnet (though i have been told the stagea one should fit) as well as the cluster and wiring harness.

I have been struggling to find a place selling one in aus though, anyone know a place selling one, or could find one?

Has anyone got any experience with this engine swap, and do you guys reckon it will be worth it?

Thanks

Hii, There are plenty of good second hand Stagea RB25DET Neo Series 2 Engines about, If you wanted to put an R34 GTR Engine unit complete with all the engine wiring, ecu, pipes, hoses ect, Wow there is one on Ebay now in auction 2 days ago it was up to $19000us+, Mind Blowing, I couldnt believe the price, But Your Neo if it a manual engine puts out 220 kw out of the Factory, more grunt than the R32 gtr,206kw A good 25det neo will be your best bet $2500 to $4000, But make sure it has been compression test and garanteed before you buy one, I run Tein road & track adjustable damper, Hieght Adjustable Coil Over, Paid $800 for then second hand of a gtr 5 years ago now & they are still working fine. Hope this helps Jamind

MCA Blues are only $200 more than the BC's. MCA's are proven adjustable coilovers from the same company who has been on the wtac podium 3 years in a row, took out fastest rwd and 2nd fastest outright in pro class. Australian made, with Australian warranty, with a company who has a face.

How bad is the compression on cyl4? Get a second oppinion. Go see the blokes at techworkz or import parts canberra as they both know their stuff.

Beware that the front cut may not come with the bumper, lights etc that you want. if it does, it will cost you a hell of a lot more than 10 grand.

A bloke just sold his s2 with a 26 engine, if memory serves it was ~9 grand. So look at the cost vs resale.

You can buy a genuine 250/260rs for 15-20 grand and sell your s2.

Hey all, so an update.

I took it to AutoTech in Hume to get it looked over, some minor leaks (coolant and gearbox), front bushes and a bit of rust beginning to appear in the top of the strut towers.

However that's not the bad news, the bad news is that cyl4 has a compression issue, that they told me will eventually kill the engine, unless it is rebuilt.

I got rough quoted 7k for a rebuild, which was a bit of a shock, esp given its an 11k car.

I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine and some others and they suggested swapping in the RB26 engine, instead of getting this one fixed.

So i was wondering how hard that will be to do? im guessing it will be relatively easy as the Stageas came with them in some models (Autech), but appear to have little else changed (5 speed gear box still etc)

I was thinking that id also like to swap the front bar for the R34 GTR front, similar to this:

0f69df2a42287a49b39412c160534458.jpg

So i was thinking about getting a Half/Front cut, since then i get the front bar, side fenders, bonnet (though i have been told the stagea one should fit) as well as the cluster and wiring harness.

I have been struggling to find a place selling one in aus though, anyone know a place selling one, or could find one?

Has anyone got any experience with this engine swap, and do you guys reckon it will be worth it?

Thanks

What exactly is the compression issue? i.e. what are the compressions ?

Over here a good Neo engine is $2k so don't go rushing into a rebuild..

If you want an expensive hobby go ahead and spend $40k on your car. If you want a fast well handling Stagea take your time and buy one already done for way less than half that and sell your present car and be ahead $$$$

What exactly is the compression issue? i.e. what are the compressions ?

Over here a good Neo engine is $2k so don't go rushing into a rebuild..

If you want an expensive hobby go ahead and spend $40k on your car. If you want a fast well handling Stagea take your time and buy one already done for way less than half that and sell your present car and be ahead $$$$

The compression are:

1 155

2 155

3 155

4 120

5 155

6 160

The reason i mention is a new engine is that if im replacing it anyway, why not put something better in?

I intend to keep this car for a while, so im not really keen to try my luck buying another car.

I thought you were someone else when i first saw the picture.

Do you drive around condor much? I was in the silver stagea.

I live in theodore so you might see me driving around south side a fair bit,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...