Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Psssh, I have two of them! :P

How does that system actually work? Because looking at it, I actually thought it was a better (i.e, far easier to hide) system than Scotty's "external gate on housing" setup.

Then again, why not just simply make the dump diameter that size?

This isn't an external gate, it's a crappy exhaust bleed off gate.

If your exhaust is building that much pressure then it's simply not flowing enough, and as I would explain to a customer, 3 inch is too small for 400kw. I guess if you researched a little Tao you would have known that, but hey perhaps the carbon monoxide is doing it's job. :P

How are your steering rack boots?

Yes, but an exhaust bleed off gate and an external wastegate/screamer really has the same effect ultimately, which is to reduce pressure in the dump/immediately after the turbo.

This seeeeems like it's easier to hide, easier to setup, etc. Then again, maybe the answer is to run a comically large dump pipe. 3in into 6in on a 45 regree angle anyone?

Would have been nice to see how well my setup actually ran, if it would you know, actually run.

  • Like 1

Tao, how about instead of a weird spring flap thing, you put an external gate on it. Yeah. An internal gate turbo, then your weird dump then an external gate on the dump. Gate city.

Use boost applied to bottom port to open the extra external gate. Then can have a solenoid to keep it shut if you want to boost past an rbt or heaps cops.

I might just patent that idea.

More gates equals more better.

Get a JJR bellmouth dump pipe and venom high flow cat

Dump pipes / cats make no different to the noise, only flow. I have the above on the standard catback and it is as quiet as a mouse.

Get a custom catback exhaust made up. DO NOT SKIMP on the catback. My cheap catback is deafening at 2000 RPM which is where a street car spends 90% of its time. It's quieter when you are at 3000+, which is the opposite of what it should be. I went back to the standard catback and the shit exhaust is currently in my garage waiting for me to figure out how to get rid of it (probably to scrap metal recycler).

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...