Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i just got this tomei reg and im pretty sure its broke but want to make sure im not being a retard....

99% sure ive got the fittings in the right way. What happens is when you go to adjust the fuel pressure im taking off the vacuum line and blocking it so the reg thinks its at WOT and then winding the screw in (I'm pretty sure on almost every fps tightening raises the pressure up) but it seems to make the pressure go down then sometimes up then and it fluctuates then going the other way does the same thing and I cant get the pressure to get any where near 3kg/cm2 (43psi) only seems to sit at 2. Attaching the vacuum line doesn't effect the gauge at all and neither does blocking off the FPR vac line...when you rev the car the gauge goes down as well.

this sounds to me that the diaphragm inside has a tear in it letting more fuel through than its supposed to. Seeing as when I first started the car I could get 3kg/cm2 but wouldn't go any higher no matter where the screw was now I can only get two seems the longer it goes the bigger the tear is probably getting?

I'm sure its not the pumps as I have 040 feeding into 044 and can hear them both on and the car ran fine with stock fpr...

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461050-tomei-fpr-type-s-broken/
Share on other sites

nothing really, but i wanted a gauge so i could check fuel pressure and I have two pretty strong pumps so wanted a larger diaphragm reg and apparently these rising rate ones offer better control over stock. Plus you can get dodgy and make your squirters go harder if you want to...

fuel leaking = fake Tomei FPR

get a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so, even Andy at Adaptronic did some tests and proved that these regulators control pressure very well.

Just my personal experience, I went from a Tomei Type-LJ regulator to a FPR1200 and my AFRs are now nice and smooth also my overall VE table has dropped allowing me to smooth out the values - I gathered the old regulator couldn't control fuel pressure properly.

its genuine, if its not then theve done a damn good job of copying it as it came with tomei stickers tomei instructions and a box covered in tomei shit and wasnt $40.

Either way this is the first tomei product ive bought and were not off to a good start, i just wanted to see if i was setting it correctly and it wasnt some other strange design than others ive used and it looks like its just broken.

thanks anyway!

  • Like 1

What about aeromotive regulators? with this I mean has there been decent testing in Australia by others regarding the quality of aeromotive regulators (A1000 Injected Bypass Regulator and Compact EFI Regulator) compared to the Turbosmart FPR1200??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
    • That's my life. Past-Duncan has a lot to answer for
×
×
  • Create New...