Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i just got this tomei reg and im pretty sure its broke but want to make sure im not being a retard....

99% sure ive got the fittings in the right way. What happens is when you go to adjust the fuel pressure im taking off the vacuum line and blocking it so the reg thinks its at WOT and then winding the screw in (I'm pretty sure on almost every fps tightening raises the pressure up) but it seems to make the pressure go down then sometimes up then and it fluctuates then going the other way does the same thing and I cant get the pressure to get any where near 3kg/cm2 (43psi) only seems to sit at 2. Attaching the vacuum line doesn't effect the gauge at all and neither does blocking off the FPR vac line...when you rev the car the gauge goes down as well.

this sounds to me that the diaphragm inside has a tear in it letting more fuel through than its supposed to. Seeing as when I first started the car I could get 3kg/cm2 but wouldn't go any higher no matter where the screw was now I can only get two seems the longer it goes the bigger the tear is probably getting?

I'm sure its not the pumps as I have 040 feeding into 044 and can hear them both on and the car ran fine with stock fpr...

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461050-tomei-fpr-type-s-broken/
Share on other sites

nothing really, but i wanted a gauge so i could check fuel pressure and I have two pretty strong pumps so wanted a larger diaphragm reg and apparently these rising rate ones offer better control over stock. Plus you can get dodgy and make your squirters go harder if you want to...

fuel leaking = fake Tomei FPR

get a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so, even Andy at Adaptronic did some tests and proved that these regulators control pressure very well.

Just my personal experience, I went from a Tomei Type-LJ regulator to a FPR1200 and my AFRs are now nice and smooth also my overall VE table has dropped allowing me to smooth out the values - I gathered the old regulator couldn't control fuel pressure properly.

its genuine, if its not then theve done a damn good job of copying it as it came with tomei stickers tomei instructions and a box covered in tomei shit and wasnt $40.

Either way this is the first tomei product ive bought and were not off to a good start, i just wanted to see if i was setting it correctly and it wasnt some other strange design than others ive used and it looks like its just broken.

thanks anyway!

  • Like 1

What about aeromotive regulators? with this I mean has there been decent testing in Australia by others regarding the quality of aeromotive regulators (A1000 Injected Bypass Regulator and Compact EFI Regulator) compared to the Turbosmart FPR1200??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...