Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peoples, I'll keep it simple

Got a rb25 t67 kinugawa 18psi bp98

Made 350hp at hubs.

Took it to the track and had a drift. I lived my dream.

The car is sitting in the garage and there's a rb30 block next to it.

I've only driven it once it was nice.

I'm gonna put the rb30 in there now cause I like spinning spanners.

What I'm after is less lag and more wheel spin.

It's just for the street now and I want an animal.

I'm looking at Garrett gt3076 .82

I'm not after hp, just spinning tyres.

What about gtx range? Or .63

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461078-rb2530-turbo-choice-again/
Share on other sites

Keep the t67 with a 30 bottom end it will be even more responsive.

I know my rb25 t67 all it does is spin wheels with basic 235 tyres

1 5000 on wheelspin

2 4500

3 4200

Thats jist footflat no clutching t67 are very agressive although i also made another 100 hp at 17 psi 450hp

I would go with something similar to a GTX3582 with a 1.06 housing.. that 3.0L will spool anything with a VCT head.

Look at 2JZ-GTE with VVT-i heads.. it will give you a good idea, those motors will happily spool up a GTX3582 1.06 rear around 4k rpm and produce very linear torque and linear power.

A T67 would be too small.

From what I've read they spool 500rpm earlier on 3l.

So with the setup I have that would be a big enprovment.

Boosting 5000 1st 4500 second and 4200 third is like mine.

I think 3582 on 3l will be too much. I'm not after a drag car with peak power.

The way I'm looking at it is I made 350hp at the wheels with 2.5 and t67. If I were to up th cc to 3l and run a smaller turbo gt3076 .82, I could easily make 350hp but I'll be boosting at 3800 4000 in first. Am I on the rite track?

T67 is restrictive on the turbine side. For a 3L you are better off going for a GT3582 or equivalent, alternatively the 25G comp with TD06H turbine inside 10 CM housing.

Listen to Stao on this one.

I am running a TDO6H-25G 12cm on 30DET for track-only.

Had been running a GT3076 0.87 turbo.

Turbine restriction showed itself when tuning with the GT30, although it was a very sweet combination for road-only use. With Garrett I would go with a GT35 0.82

The TDO6H 12cm provides great linear delivery for track, but some stage I'm interested to slip on a 10cm housing. With that I'd expect 3-500rpm earlier for full boost, say 2900rpm for 17psi. The 12cm housing for road-only might not be the ideal match if you need mumbo in the 2000-3000rpm range. 12cm is more than adequate for response across 3500-7000 on track though.

For the money would also look closely at a BW 7670 especially if finances don't stretch to a proper split pulse with twin gates, fancy manifold etc.

My t67 comes on at 4100 in 4th on a 25 but makes peek power at 7800 at a flat 17 across the board .

My understanding was that it would come on around 3600 on 30 and behave well on the st.

This kinda annoys me as i had planned to use this settup eg put a 30 bottom end on.

Michelomore made 400 on a 2530 with a gtx3076 .8 i beleive

It's all application dependent for what is best suited.

^^ Fully agree the GT3582 is more suited to the 3 litre than a GT30. Those 1.06 housings aren't so easy to acquire, and the bulkier housing impinges into the centre bearing area making hookup to oil/water lines more difficult.

Cheapest option by far is to run the existing TD06SDL2-25G (aka T67 25G)and see if he likes it. Dimensions suggest broadly similar capabilities to a GTX3076.

30DET with stock cams, VCT working, stock inlet manifold etc will belt out some decent mid range torque but tend to peak around/just under 6000rpm. Bigger turbine does not automatically equate to peaky or laggy performance. But it can extend the usable upper rpm without making it gutless right down low. That's why the TDO6H 10cm turbine spec was suggested. I would back it as a very good all rounder, with the 12cm more suited to track. There's enough in-car video in my 33 build thread to demonstrate that unit as progressive, not focused on peak power.

350rwhp was a figure mentioned earlier. If the preference is for Kinugawa product and that sort of hp and very quick/early spool to fry rubber, try a TDO6SL2-20G. Not big $$ to play around and trial. I reckon it would fall over with engine rpm, maybe 5500. I'd suggest similar in sizing and characteristics to a GT3071.

The BW 7670 shouldn't be ignored. Robust, priced competitively, and different specs available to tailor it to application.

Edited by Dale FZ1

The t67 25g seemes to preform between the 3076 and the 3582.

Really depend on were he wants the power band sounds like down low for the street

not sure if you noticed the above dyno graph I posted of a GTX3582 on a 3.0L 2JZ

but it's all in at 3500rpm with 25psi and look at the power delivery, also if you were to run a little less boost it would come on even earlier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...