Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to upgrade my Brakes. K-Sport Front, and stock rear.

My K-sports haven't had a hiccup yet, but they are not balanced well with my rear. I've been doing alot more track days, and between my tires getting loose, and the sketchy rear swaying, I've decided to look at upgrades. I am just starting to get into understanding brake balancing, and design, so please forgive my ignorance.

First choice would be to get a decent set of rear brakes (AP or Brembo), and upgrade the fronts at a later date.

Option 2 would be to go to the AP full front and rear.

Option 3 is Brembo GT front and rear

Option 4 is R35

In regards to the AP kits, the larger diameter rotor option is cheaper, and the smaller, but thicker rotor is more expensive. Is this the same kit, just the thicker rotor is more expensive? My obvious reaction would be that the larger diameter has more braking power.

The brembo kits have the same size rotors, but the prices are different. I cant seem to find out why.

In regards to the R35, how would the above compare?

And other than the price of the brackets, why hasn't it become more popular on R32-33-34?

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461195-brake-kit-options-r33-brembo-ap-r35/
Share on other sites

K Sports (D2 in my case) are fine for the track. Just get something better than stock for the rears. What kind of car have you got and what brakes are on the rear? How many KW do you have or plan to have in the near future?

A thicker rotor can absorb a larger volume of heat, where as a thinner rotor will heat up quicker.

Its the mass of the rotor that gives it the ability to absorb heat, obviously this is dissipated on the straights via air cooling.

Yep diameter adds leverage, in much the same way as it can effect brake balance.

Personally, id be studying a known working setup carefully to save yourself the expensive headaches.

Dont forget caliper piston surface areas and master sizes all play a part in how it works......its not a simple task getting it right.

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

  • Like 1

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Don't forget E=mc2

or in the case of our cars weight and speed matter so KW is relevant .

My Stagea weighs nearly 1800kg and stopping it lap after lap from 250km/hr was not possible with GTT brakes although they were fine on the road. With D2 front brakes (330mm) and GTR rears with Pagid pads problem solved. I am sure they would be adequate for most Skylines unless exceptionally fast.

K Sports (D2 in my case) are fine for the track. Just get something better than stock for the rears. What kind of car have you got and what brakes are on the rear? How many KW do you have or plan to have in the near future?

Bob, I have a GTR33, Single Precision 6466, 544kw to the wheels on E85. So stopping on the street is just as important as stopping on the track. The rears are the stock brembos.

A thicker rotor can absorb a larger volume of heat, where as a thinner rotor will heat up quicker.

Its the mass of the rotor that gives it the ability to absorb heat, obviously this is dissipated on the straights via air cooling.

Yep diameter adds leverage, in much the same way as it can effect brake balance.

Personally, id be studying a known working setup carefully to save yourself the expensive headaches.

Dont forget caliper piston surface areas and master sizes all play a part in how it works......its not a simple task getting it right.

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Thanks Peter,

I've been searching threads, and most of them have been hijacked or whored out, making it tough to sort out the useful information. My car is full interior, no roll cage, no CF parts to lighten it up.

R35 Brakes are on the Z-Tune Clubman, and seems to work well, but is the second most expensive option (Brembo GT-R series are $$$$).

Edited by sixmassive

What about the alcon kits a load of guys were getting from jdl in the UK a while back, was a decent thread on them here. Sounded like a good option so might be worth a search.

Sent Alcon a message a bit ago. For Another 200 bucks and i could have a Brembo kit, or save 200 and have an AP kit.

Also send wilwood a message.

Maybe check out the Alpha Omega Racing brake kits.

I saw a thread about them converting evo calipers, but i skimmed over it. I'll give it a closer read in a sec.

Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.

Don't forget E=mc2

or in the case of our cars weight and speed matter so KW is relevant .

My Stagea weighs nearly 1800kg and stopping it lap after lap from 250km/hr was not possible with GTT brakes although they were fine on the road. With D2 front brakes (330mm) and GTR rears with Pagid pads problem solved. I am sure they would be adequate for most Skylines unless exceptionally fast.

Correct but covered my arse with the highlighted part you missed....speed for speed :)

If the speeds at application are identical, vehicle mass is the issue. (and Visa-versa)

  • Like 1

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

You could get some 330mm for the rear: http://ksportusa.com/b2c/proddetail.php?prod=BKNS170-433SO

Just get some decent pads.

Nothing is directly wrong with them. I feel the balance is off. Trying to brake from 4th to 1st, or on a sweeping turn, the rear gets very light, and sways. When braking into a sweeping turn, it gets very squirly.

The K-sports in the front are 8-pot 356mm i believe.

I have the same issue with mine and I'm guessing it's because I only have Bendix generals in the rear. I'm going to swap to a more aggressive pad when they're due and see if that helps.

First things first. What shocks and spring rates are you running? What tyres brand and sizes are you running? What wheel alignment are you bashing around the track on? What ride heights front and rear are you running Lastly what pads are you running front and rear?

If you are trying to get a brake setup that ensure the car is settled under big stops then its best to make sure you are looking at the right thing. 7 times out of 10 if you want to shorten braking distances or improve braking stability it will be tyres and suspension.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...