Does Altering Your Ebc Have Any Affect On Your Current Tune?

[Bronno!]

Looking for some answers regarding the settings on a EBC in regards to the tune.

Will there be any affect on my tune if i dial in the Gain and start boost/set gain on my EBC?When the tune was done on my car last, the tuner only altered the "set".

I am happy with the boost it's running, however after reading about the Gain and set gain for my EBC, i am starting to think that maybe i am missing out on some response due to the Gain and set gain(start boost) not being altered.

F.Y.I, Car in question is a r33 gtst utilising a Greddy Profec B spec 2, however i feel that this question could relate to other cars aswell.

Thankyou in advance.

(feel free to insult me if this has already been covered)

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

It might hit load points that were unaccounted for during the tune and might do unfavourable things.

Ideally a tuner with at least half a brain would interpolate values in those load rows and surrounding areas.

[Odium]

You might be able to help it spool up to full boost a bit faster by keeping it fully shut longer... or progressively opening it up a bit early to avoid a boost spike past the set value... Depends what alterable settings your EBC actually provides.

Either way, you're not going to be able to:

1. Take advantage of the altered boost curve without a touchup tune to take the different airflow into account.
2. Visibly see what differences its making to the boost curve without graphing PSI to RPM, once again, on the dyno.

You COULD see how different it feels by changing it and then taking it for a drive, but you're risking bad air/fuel mixtures (and it'll feel slow, even if you've nailed the best possible boost curve for your engine, because its not tuned for it)

[rx-line]

Do you have a wideband? Seeing as our cars have fuel pressure regulators that increase fuel pressure as boost pressures increase, I would think you would be fairly safe in that respect. However if your timing map is aggressive for building boost, knock may be of an issue.

Call your tuner and see what he says. But if you set your gain for the best spool and it is ultimately not much different than before It's not as much of a worry.

[fyjosh]

Record your current settings, change to desired settings, reverse if it doesn't work with your tune.

Dial in as much gain as you can without spiking over desired max boost. You want as much early response as possible while keeping a steady boost through the Rev range.

[burn4005]

AFM or MAP ecu?

[Bronno!]

Cheers all for the replies, had a break over Chrissy and gonna give it a try utilising the power fc hand controller knock display and the wideband a/f gauge I installed just last week.

I think power fc is a map ecu? Only reason I guess that is due to it utilising the map cells to determine Load values....

Before I start this, will there be any noticeable improvement keeping in mind it is the stock turbo running 11.5 psi max. (Safe limits from my minimal knowledge)

Or does altering those settings only effect aftermarket, bigger turbos?

Thanks heaps in advance.

[GTSBoy]

There's a number of things to address in your post.

1) MAP vs map. MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure. Measuring this is one way to get the main load input to an ECU. The alternative is to measure the air flow directly, using an Air Flow Meter (AFM). Original Nissan ECU uses AFM. Power FC also uses AFM. There is a variant of the Power FC available called the D Jetro that is modified to use MAP.

A map is a table of values, addressed by row and column. MAP and map have nothing to do with each other.....except that in an ECU where MAP is used as the load index then one of the axes in the map will be MAP. If that doesn't make sense, then read it 10 times. It will eventually.

2) The Power FC's knock indicator is a load of crap, at least partially because the Nissan knock sensors are pretty crap. You can't really trust them to tell you whether you have any knock at all, let alone whether you have dangerous levels. If you want to tune to find where it knocks and back it off into safe regions you really need a dedicated knock box or a good knock audio system so you can listen for yourself.

3) The stock turbo does not have a "safe limit". 11.5 psi is about as high as you can push the boost on a stock turbo WITH A STOCK ECU. This is because the stock ECU will usually have a spaz at about that level. The stock ceramic turbo can and will let go at ANY BOOST LEVEL AT ALL. The higher the boost then the more likely it is to die and the shorter time it is likely to live. That being said, many have died at stock boost, many have died at 10 psi, more have died at 12 psi, by the time you get to 14 psi you're really asking for it, by the time you're running 16 psi you're lucky if you can get it to go all the way up the street on boost. Some freak turbos have held together at silly boost levels like 17 psi for a long time....but it doesn't matter because they're running outside their efficiency range and not making the power you'd expect anyway.

Run 11.5 psi and cross your fingers that your turbo is not a fragile one. Most of the original ones still running are by definition not fragile, because they have made it this far!

[Ke55pig]

Until read your running a stock turbo i was going to say sometimes they wont set the gain up on and agressive turbo to make it more driveable when it first comes on but with a stock turbi u really do want it all on asap