Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I just had a quick question i would like some opinions on.

I have a 26/30 in my Vl calais and it is running twins at 18psi. A haltech 500sprint is the Ecu that is running it all.

Just quickly because i get any responses about talking to my tuner about my issues, I have done this and am in the process of continuing this, however with the new year upon us things are a little slow on the response end and i just wanted to get a few more opinions so i don't feel like a total useless twat when talking about whats going on.

So basically whats happening is that the car is running a bit rich (i was told by my tuner) as the haltech does not have a pre mapped cold start function (told by tuner). Now the car keeps fouling the plugs. I have changed the plugs 3 times in 500kms. Admittedly i dont drive it very often. Initially i was told that my car alarm was draining my battery and the haltech doesnt run well off lower voltage so that was causing things to malfunction. Now that i have a trickle charger in the car the battery is always topped up, but things are still amiss. Also another thing i have trouble with, is that the car stalls under deceleration. When i change gears from 3-2 or 2-1 in town it stalls between gear changes. Unless i keep the revs up.

The car idles at 1250 rpm when warm, however i had to up this a little because it was idling at 400rpm when cold.

My question to the forum is:

Is this all related to the tune? AF ratios and so forth?

or could there be something else im missing???

The engine is pretty much brand new. every bit in and on it are new except the rods which are off the dirty 30.

Thanks in advance

If i have left out any info just tell me what i might need to add to give you gurus a better idea on things.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462000-engine-troubles/
Share on other sites

I find it hard to believe that a haltech sprint wouldn't have a cold start function. I had a fuel only haltech in the early 90's and even that had cold start. Premapped? Your tuner should have set this up. If the issue was only related to cold start, everything should be fine once warm, clearly its not. It sounds like you need a better tuner. Sorry I couldn't be of any better assistance.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462000-engine-troubles/#findComment-7660937
Share on other sites

Basically the tune is not finished. It sounds like the tuner has tuned it at operating temp but he hasn't done the finishing touches like cold start, idle control, and your decel issue.

Depends on what you agreed on with the tuner. However, if he is blaming the ECU for not being able to do something that is a bad sign - setting up cold start is something the tuner should normally sort out for you and there is absolutely no reason why any modern ECU can't be set up to run properly when cold.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462000-engine-troubles/#findComment-7661052
Share on other sites

The tuner may be right to say it doesn't have a "pre-mapped" cold start function but that just means he has to set it up himself. You will have to leave the car with him overnight so he can start it from cold.

What plugs are you running?

Have you got the best tuner in Tasmania (no point in cheaping out)?

And out of interest what power does it make?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462000-engine-troubles/#findComment-7661201
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys.

For privacy reasons i dont want to publicly complain about anyone and what they do, if you really want to know who has tuned my car i have no issue in letting you guys know via pm.

I have had the car looked at by Confidyne also, and they said that the tune looked ok at the time before i got the car back. Having said that, the car was only there for about 30mins to an hour so i imagine that it was a glance from Confidyne.

KiwiRS4T - I am just running NGK plugs and they seem to be doing the job fine. I just cleaned them again the other day and it starts again now. The car makes 310rwkw on bp98 @18psi. Its running -7's

my tuner is happy to check the tune again, I just have to wait till hes free again. Hopefully that'll be end of Jan start of Feb.

I just hope its all resolved once and for all :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462000-engine-troubles/#findComment-7661509
Share on other sites

Most tuners ask for the car to be left overnight, they do the dyno tune on day one and the first thing they do on day 2 is the cold start, they then may go on to touch up the day 1 tune.

Yes it does have coolant temperature correction......

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462000-engine-troubles/#findComment-7661526
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
    • The detail level is about right for the money they charge for the full kit... AU$21.00 each issue, 110 issues for a total of $2,300 (I mentioned $2.2K in the first post when the exchange rate was better). $20/week is doable... 😐
    • If planning on joining us for the day(s) please indicate by filling in this form. https://forms.gle/Ma8Nn4DzYVA8uDHg7
    • You put the driver's seat on the wrong side! Incredible detail on all of this. It looks like you could learn a lot about the car just from assembling the kit.
×
×
  • Create New...