Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Comne on ppl, im still keen, but even my interest is starting to wane...i have a sprint at Phillip Island the weekend before, and a Sprint at Calder a fortnight after...and i still want to make this trip, though i aint keen on the 8hr drive by myself to go to the track by myself, especially when there are so many Vic/NSW trac days the next few months...

Come on ppl, are there any ppl that can say for sure they will come up for a run in their cars?

  • Replies 135
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Meh, drift.  So based on response it appears no one is interested in cutting some laps around a circuit...only drifting?

Fair enough i suppose... more track time for me!

I'll be going up for a look if you are going to be there, as for running, I doubt it, got no spare cash to fix anyhting at the moment!

Stock radiator isn't too bad as long as it gets good airflow. Make sure you have your heater on full, it might give you a extra lap or two

I installed a oil cooler before I went out

Chances are your brakes will be the telling factor unless they are upgraded, as the first time I went out, I was only running 150rwkw and the brakes would shit themselves after a few laps

Tips would be -

Make sure you have decent brakes/pads

Run your oil level a touch higher to prevent oil starvation

Test the integrity of your fuel tank seals - both times I have been out, I have leaked fuel. Fill your car up and throw it around HEAPS, then check for leaks. Tighten and ensure the seal for your pump brakcet is seated properly, especially if it has been replaced at some point

Make sure your happy with your tyres - if they feel shit on the street, they feel way worse on the track. Put a extra few PSI in them

Do one complete cool down lap, low revs with minimal braking to let everything cool of

Its great fun, I hope I can make it out!

Chris

I can't speak from 1st hand experience, but i have been "pit crew" for RowdyR32 at Sandown, he's pretty blaise about this stuff and went out with stock radiator and no oil cooler. Just did an oil change before hand (2-3K old oil anyways), checked brakes, tyres, etc. (should of paid more attention to the susp. on his GTR before going out but that's another story) and bought some high-quality brake fluid.

As these were super sprints, 6 laps or so long, temps weren't too bad.

But the brake fluid was the problem, as he didn't change it over before hand, so by lap 4-5 his pedal was pretty much on the floor coz he'd boiled the old stuff. So, between each session I had to help him flush the brakes, and top up with the high-quality stuff.

So i know the one thing I'll be doing for certain before hand, if/when i get out there, new brake fluid!

Another thing is, if this is a CAMs event you'll be required to have an extinguisher, but even if it's not I'd still carry one (maybe even two). I've been meaning to get one even though all i do is drive on the road.

You can if you have a certain level CAMS license

My understanding (and 2nd hand expereince once more) is that it's up to the event organisers more than anything. A lot of events allow passenger runs in the first warm-up session, where driving must 80% of ability, but once the main game is on passengers are a no go.
If petrol prices keep going up, it'll be an expensive day out :)

Hmm, around 1700kms round trip, so 4 tanks of gas. One tank of gas at the track. So about $350 in fuel. Plus accomodation and entry to the track. Including the service on the car this is going to set me back about $800 :D

So are you guys 50:50? Better odds? There is a good chance in early November im going to be back in Thebarton with work, as they place i was working at is being audited by the TGA again. So that means work will pay for my fuel and accomodation :)

Would Friday 11th November be a better time, the extra 5 weeks to get things sorted on the car. Big thing for me is expenses can be covered by work, and its after Sandown, which is the day i really want to lean on the car to see how quick it is with a good hit of boost.

So is it a case of now or never, or a few more weeks to get organised?? No SAU-Vic folk will be comign as there is the annual BBQ, another thing id liek ot go to that weekend :)

November the 11th would be much better.

Only 2 days after my birthday. :D

Maybe some on in the family can get me an oil cooler. :)

So all up, what do we need.

Stack hat.

Whats it cost to enter?

Any other fees?

Edited by Cubes
November the 11th would be much better.

Only 2 days after my birthday. :O

Maybe some on in the family can get me an oil cooler. :)

So all up, what do we need.

Stack hat.

Whats it cost to enter?

Any other fees?

Yeh stack hat from motorcyle place will set you bac $100, or can try and borrow one.

...and thats it really, ill ring Mallala over the next week or so and confirm licence requirements, clothing etc, unless someone knows already?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...