Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I honestly don't know what an SPL solid is so I'll guess its a type of bush, and I assume rear knuckle is the rear hub/upright assembly.

There are a billion bushes at either end of the control arms, and yes if they've never been changed they are likely to be rooted. 6 per side + possibly 2 more depending on your hicas/nocas setup.

The best bet for a road car is generally an adjustable poly bush like whiteline or superpro because they are quieter, last much longer but also allow some extra adjustment for alignment particularly useful if you have lowered the car. Rose joints / rod ends / spherical bearings /whatever you want to call them are generally a bad choice for a road car because they wear quickly and make nasty knocking noises, think under 20,000klm.

And finally, it is a prick of a job to get all the bushes out and in, get a workshop to do it unless you have a big press and fittings, or unless you really enjoy frustrating and hard car jobs.

Pressing bushes out of large cast pieces can be hit and miss. Sometimes the shell just wont let go, and youll just end up bending things if you go stick it on a 20 ton press.

The easiest way to remove the rear ones is to heat the inner tube to separate it from the rubber, pull it out using a bearing puller (or even some threaded rod and creative use of spare metal tubes and sockets), then use a reciprocating saw to SLOWLY cut through the inner shell until youre able to knock it out with a hammer and punch.

You'll need a lot of patience, but if you use the right tools, it makes the job far more pleasant.

Then just stick aftermarket arms on there, because no one wants to do twice the amount of bushes.

well....if you get the right support on the arm and it starts to press out easily, it's MUCH quicker than doing the 3-stage cutting method, but sometimes that way is needed, certainly was in my case, but I did it with the knuckle on the car, and it was a PITA. PUll it off, give it a complete overhaul in one step.

+100 for everything above, steel sleeved OEM bushes are a massive pain. I've done the rear camber and traction arm bushes (off the car without a press), the HICAS ones and the diff bushes (on the car yay) and they all take ages and are extremely tedious.

I reckon you'll end up paying 2-4 times the cost of the bushes in labour. And it's still so worth it.

I reckon you'll end up paying 2-4 times the cost of the bushes in labour. And it's still so worth it.

If you're like me and you are OCD about knowing what it done to the car, it can be worth doing yourself. For example I remember that I needed to modify the 4 bushes (8 split bushes) that go in the A-arm at the rear with the ball joint. They were superpro ones, and the 2 halves were a little long, so they poked out of the A-arm shell too much, and were extremely tight in the subframe. Not only would I expect the bushings to eat themselves, they'd probably squeak like crazy after a while. If there's a mechanic you can trust to spend that much attention to detail, then it may be worth the labour.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...