Jump to content
SAU Community

D2 Brake Fitting Help

d-ranged
 Share

Recommended Posts

d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

Posted
Posted

I am in the middle of fitting my D2 6 pots to the front of my 33 GTR. I have the drivers side on, no problem. Passenger side, i have put the disk on, held it on with wheel nuts then fitted the caliper. The disk is extremely close to the inside brake pad. When i spin the disk it spins freely until a certain point then gets stiff.

I can still push it through by hand with a little bit of force then it loosens up again.

Is it going to be OK like this? If i drive it will it just wear the pad enough to stop it from rubbing?

I really don't know what else to do. The washers that come with it to space it are no good as they just push the pad even closer to the rotor.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462417-d2-brake-fitting-help/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Put it all together, bleed thoroughly, and drive back and forth (not on the road and with no hard braking) and then jack it up and see if it is still binding. I would not be keen to try to get rid of the problem by hard braking, You want it all lining up properly before you bed the pads and discs in as per instructions.

Does the piston go all the way back in? Tried levering it in (without the pad and opening the bleed screw)?

d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Put it all together, bleed thoroughly, and drive back and forth (not on the road and with no hard braking) and then jack it up and see if it is still binding. I would not be keen to try to get rid of the problem by hard braking, You want it all lining up properly before you bed the pads and discs in as per instructions.

Does the piston go all the way back in? Tried levering it in (without the pad and opening the bleed screw)?

Yeah the pistons are all the way in, the whole kit is brand new.

I also had a look at the passenger side and that is pretty similar.

I have just been trying to get it straight for the last 4 hours with no luck. I have tried swapping the brackets. I have tried fitting the brackets in every way possible, you can only bolt the calipers with them one way which is the original way i put them on.

They only need to move over a tiny bit. I really don't know what else to do now.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

hmm not awesome. they will still work fine but the inner pad will wear faster than it should. I think you already said the shims would worsen the problem not correct it.

Assuming all mounting surfaces are flat and straight eg no small metal dags pushing it out, your only option to correct it would be to have the adapters machined to take a mm or 3 off. Or you can just pretend it never happened and live with faster pad wear than you should have. Or return them....

d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hmm not awesome. they will still work fine but the inner pad will wear faster than it should. I think you already said the shims would worsen the problem not correct it.

Assuming all mounting surfaces are flat and straight eg no small metal dags pushing it out, your only option to correct it would be to have the adapters machined to take a mm or 3 off. Or you can just pretend it never happened and live with faster pad wear than you should have. Or return them....

OK thanks for that mate. I dont drive the car much so wear is not a huge issue, it probably does about 1000 miles a year. Although i would like it to be fitted correctly really! Yeah, the shims will just push the caliper even closer to the pad.

I am sure all mounting surfaces are flat, I will check again tomorrow though.

I am in talks with the company i bought them from who are talking to the factory that make them so will see what they say. I cant really send them back though, i have sold my brembos :(

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

Assuming all mounting surfaces are flat and straight eg no small metal dags pushing it out, your only option to correct it would be to have the adapters machined to take a mm or 3 off. Or you can just pretend it never happened and live with faster pad wear than you should have. Or return them....

I'm with Duncan on this one.

Once you've double checked all mounting faces are free of scale/debris, check the clearance again.

Either have the supplier send some better spec (slightly thinner) adaptor brackets, or get yours machined. Take off 0.5mm will probably resolve everything. Not a big or expensive job.

d-ranged Enthusiast

d-ranged

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I have managed to get the brakes on properly. There was a metal nipple that was touching the mounting bracket a tiny bit which was stopping it from sitting flat against the hub. It was quite hard to see that it was touching as it was so minmal but it kept catching my eye and I had a feeling it was because of that.


I ground it down and refit the mounts, disk and calipers and they all line up perfectly!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
×
×
  • Create New...