Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

another workaround (if you don't know what the deadtimes are), set roughly what you think the dead times are..

set your VE on your fuel map to 80 or so then adjust the deadtimes till your AFRs are stoich.

Actually, better yet, get bigger injectors!

This is just to get motor run in and sorted.

another workaround (if you don't know what the deadtimes are), set roughly what you think the dead times are..

set your VE on your fuel map to 80 or so then adjust the deadtimes till your AFRs are stoich.

That sounds like a good idea.

So increase the fuel map % so the highest is around 80% giving it better resolution?

^ no no no.. only the idle cells, it's just a way to determine the dead time at x voltage.

So what you do, set the VE to 80 for cells around idle 0 to 50kPA and 0 to 900 rpm. Start car, monitor the voltage then adjust the dead time till you hit stoich.

Of course all other VE cells will need to be adjusted to suit as the base map isn't really ideal.

alternativly if the ecu supports changing from sequential to batch fire have it running at a stable afr using batch fire, then swap to sequential if its leaner when sequential then increase dead times, if its richer decrease, and change back and forth like that until there is no change in afr

  • 2 weeks later...

^ no no no.. only the idle cells, it's just a way to determine the dead time at x voltage.

So what you do, set the VE to 80 for cells around idle 0 to 50kPA and 0 to 900 rpm. Start car, monitor the voltage then adjust the dead time till you hit stoich.

Of course all other VE cells will need to be adjusted to suit as the base map isn't really ideal.

Setting idle fuel load cells with a VE of 80 on most engines would be throwing mixtures in the mid to high 11's and possibly even deeper into the 10's or more as VE is dependent on the VE of an engine, all are different.

if the engine has cams and some brappy overlap good chance you'll be adding way too much fuel in those load sites causing the car to stall at an instant. Instant plug foul.

I'm not sure how your example can give you a accurate dead time as dead Times need to be measured over voltage and fuel rail pressure.

that data cannot be obtained while it's running in a car unless you're adjusting your voltage in your car somehow and see no erratic change in your Afr.

Even then you'd still be guessing

Edited by mr skidz
  • Like 1

It's more of a guestimate way of setting it up rather than getting it precisely correct, many tuners have done that in the past namely PowerFC days.

Of course getting trade right data across voltage vs. lag time is ideal however it may be difficult to obtain data for stock side feeds hence the recommendation.

Many tuners do all sorts of things to get that I agree but it's called close enough.

80% VE at idle is not a good idea and you'll quickly be pulling plugs out from fouling.

The correct data would be voltage vs fuel pressure = lag time

I'm guilty of doing this, but if you drop the dead time enough you'll hit stoich on idle.

Yes you will hit stoich but choking you're dead times to decrease fuel supply to your fuel map is bodgie hard that's not the way to get your afr's correct and all your numbers will be ass about in your base map which is your foundation so it needs to be perfect before any subfolders are corrected otherwise you will chase your tail forever and never have anything working correctly.

so all your correction maps will never be correct.

Even cold start percentages like intake temperature corr and so forth.

If you put your high beams on I bet you your air fuel ratio changes?

this is what dead time is all about.

Edited by mr skidz

Yes I am 100% of all this, but if you have no data how else you going to set it?

With the high beam thing, easy go monitor your voltage and tweak the voltage vs dead time table when your head lights are on.

I've see a handful of tunes from reputable workshops that have a linear straight line as their dead times.

If your happy with close enough than that'll work. I wouldn't settle for that myself.

changing VE on base map to 80% at idle is not correct approach your best to Change the Dead times which is clearly the issue everything else is a band-aid approach that's all I'm saying.

Workshops do all sorts of weird and wonderful things unfortunately.

For every awesome successful build that happens I'm sure there's 10 that we don't hear of that are horror stories just saying.

Edited by mr skidz

Yes I am happy with that if I cannot find any data for an injector however these days everyone runs modern top feeds so the data is avaliable to just copy paste into a table.

If someone brings a car for me to tune with high flows I never use the data given, especially off Five O's site. Those numbers don't work at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...