Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am slightly obsessed with the idea of this for some reason after selling off my ARC box to go back to stock (with Apexi panel filter).

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-rb26dett-engine-parts-r-tune-air-cleaner-duct.html

Has anyone ever done a back to back dyno test vs the stock snorkel? I'm interested if it makes any different what so ever.

Car will be running -9s on stock intake piping. I'm mostly interested in response.

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463042-nismo-r-tune-intake-duct/
Share on other sites

Fair assumption, but what I'm after is someone who has done a real world test.

I can't deal with the what if lol

I was also considering buying one then making a mould so we can all just ave one because it looks nice :D

  • Like 1

For all that hectic track work I'll be doing.

I knew I'd get these responses from the usual offenders, but I'm still holding out hope that someone has actually tested this.

If for no other reason than my satisfaction.

For all that hectic track work I'll be doing.

I knew I'd get these responses from the usual offenders, but I'm still holding out hope that someone has actually tested this.

If for no other reason than my satisfaction.

:/

It's got nothing to do with track work.

For what it's worth you'd be better modifying the two pipes that bolt to the compressor housing instead of the snorkel.

The snorkel from the guard to the airbox, has that been opened up?

I think people who bought this didn't do it for power gains.

Think of it this way maybe, the hole in the airbox is still the same size. So it's like putting a funnel on a straw in a way

I'd say the chance of someone doing a back to back dyno run after a cosmetic change would be slim...

I've seen people refer to it as a visual mod as well which makes me wonder where Nismo gets this from?

"The NISMO Air Cleaner Duct Reduces Compressor intake pressure by 30 percent at the moment of boost pressure, also decreases air-path pressure."

:/

It's got nothing to do with track work.

For what it's worth you'd be better modifying the two pipes that bolt to the compressor housing instead of the snorkel.

The snorkel from the guard to the airbox, has that been opened up?

Then what? Avoiding exploding diff/ruined sump?

The rubber intake pipes or the metal pipes that connect the twin turbo pipe to each comp housing?

Guard port is opened.

I've seen people refer to it as a visual mod as well which makes me wonder where Nismo gets this from?

"The NISMO Air Cleaner Duct Reduces Compressor intake pressure by 30 percent at the moment of boost pressure, also decreases air-path pressure."

Then what? Avoiding exploding diff/ruined sump?

The rubber intake pipes or the metal pipes that connect the twin turbo pipe to each comp housing?

Guard port is opened.

3b8a7cc2.jpg

40a126ad.jpg

59be22eb.jpg

b636d8d4.jpg

7eb57f61.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...