Jump to content
SAU Community

Could This Be My Problem?

R33_BFT

By R33_BFT,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33_BFT Explorer

R33_BFT

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a really bad misfire (full wrx) that was intermittent but today didnt go away at all (r33 RB25DET), i thought i'd start with spark plugs...so i pulled everything out and saw that my valley and coil packs had a white/yellow build up!

It's now also blowing white smoke, it gets worse and worse as the car warms up then goes away about 15 minutes later.

post-142516-0-34660300-1455875302_thumb.jpg

post-142516-0-36301100-1455875305_thumb.jpg

Edited by R33_BFT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463073-could-this-be-my-problem/
Share on other sites
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

You got water leaking into a combustion chamber overnight [or when you leave it parked for a while. Its only a small leak [for now] and when you get going you cant see the vapour, or as it warms up the leak closes up. Probably not all the way but smaller anyway.

Whatever you have its only going to get worse.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Inspect for arcing (can I see some soot spots?) then clean it all up. New plugs since you're in there (assuming youre using copper, if iridiums/platinums only replace if they're stuffed). Dielectric grease should help it stop arcing when you reassemble. That worked for me, and costs next to nothing but YMMV.

R33_BFT Explorer

R33_BFT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im buying splitfires tomorrow hopefully they'll be here by the end of the week, ill get some more pictures when i take it all out again.
I was advised to clean out the valley (leaving the spark plugs in, ofcourse) and to then replace the spark plugs and coil packs. I was told that it might just be oxidation?

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Exactly where is it 'blowing white smoke'?

Split fires won't help if its out the exhaust [they are a good product, have them myself], but white exhaust smoke is burning coolant.

If its just out of the valley, then you don't have a problem really. Vented bonnets and washing the engine bay lets water collect on the valley and it steams up as the engine heats up. But you never seem to get rid of it all, usually you have to soak it up with a rag or sponge.

R33_BFT Explorer

R33_BFT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It is blowing white smoke out of the exhaust.
my main concern is putting in my new splitfire's and fouling them with a coolant leak haha
I'm going to take the valley cover off tomorrow after work and clean it all out and replace the spark plugs and coil packs though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...