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2016 Round 3 - Monday 14th March (labour Day) Hosted By Tampered Motorsport


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Photo credit: speedcafe



This round we will be attending the day run by Tampered Motorsport on the recently resurfaced Winton Motor Raceway



Monday 14th of March (Labour day weekend)



- For anyone interested in attending their first track day here all you need to know : http://www.sau.com.a...y-requirements/



Licence:


You will need a CAMS or AASA licence to compete on the day.


L2S can be obtained via https://www.cams.com.au/ You can purchase a day licence at the track for $20.00 (good idea if this is the only track day you are doing this year)


Other requirements : http://www.sau.com.a...y-requirements/



Location:


Winton Motor Raceway


Fox Street, Winton


https://goo.gl/maps/wWhJVKs4aJv



Pricing:


Entrants: $180.00


Spectators: Free


These days can be a sellout so get your entry in quick.



Entry/Registration


Tampered Motorsport Website.


Please put SAU-VIC in the "sponsor field" so we can identify you on Natsoft.


https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/56a9acce1ab00/web/




Squires Loft Nunawading will be putting on lunch for all SAU VIC members (Comment in this thread if you are attending so we can cater accordingly).



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  • Like 1

During entry it'll ask you if you're a Beginner, Intermediate or Racer, and ask you for your PB time at Winton or Sandown so they have an indication of how fast you are.

They'll use this information to group together based on times (I hope) and not just throw all of us SAU people into one group where nobody will be able to get a clean lap because of varying pace.

AC, can you confirm?

During entry it'll ask you if you're a Beginner, Intermediate or Racer, and ask you for your PB time at Winton or Sandown so they have an indication of how fast you are.

They'll use this information to group together based on times (I hope) and not just throw all of us SAU people into one group where nobody will be able to get a clean lap because of varying pace.

AC, can you confirm?

I know that's how it usually works, but I've had issues with traffic at previous busy tampered events which is really frustrating and dangerous.

Previously they've allowed groups to go in together and the driving/traffic has always been better with a group who has great track etiquette, even with speed differences

I can ask the question, this is our first day with Tampered in a long time so let's see how it goes.

Also Justin does your BMW have an engine swap, stripped out interior or the addition of a turbo or supercharger? (just for the championship groupings)

I can ask the question, this is our first day with Tampered in a long time so let's see how it goes.

Also Justin does your BMW have an engine swap, stripped out interior or the addition of a turbo or supercharger? (just for the championship groupings)

No worries, I'll have a think about it and let you know of I enter :)

It's a stock n/a 2.5 and I run with full interior for our events, on Hankook RS3s :)

Does tagging Racer=being put in a group with idiots who think it's door to door racing, hold you up or dive down the inside using my wing as a corning assistant?

Kind of concur with being in an SAU group, even if there is a speed difference(to a point), we know about it, faster ones out first, slower at back and we know who is experienced and likely to be looking etc.

BTW, where are we marking SAUVic, not asked me for a Club yet, just sponsorship.

  • Like 1

Discussions going on in the background about an SAUVIC group. There negatives to this of course, with vast lap time difference. However most of us know what times we do, so as long as we exit the pit in that order there shouldnt be any issues.

Plus its not all about times, it's fun battle on track as well.

  • Like 2

Let's see if the track is quicker!

From chatting to friends that have already raced there they said the racing line is nice and grippy so you are quicker but get off that line and it will spit you off the track very easily..

Sounds like you will all have an interesting day... :)

From chatting to friends that have already raced there they said the racing line is nice and grippy so you are quicker but get off that line and it will spit you off the track very easily..

Sounds like you will all have an interesting day... :)

As someone who has never done Winton before (or only done a track day in a completely different car in completely different track and different country) this is a worry lol.

Are Tampered days really that bad? Have heard nothing but "lol, I don't go to tampered days" from literally 100% of people that it's come up with in conversation.

Don't worry probably more like 50 shades of grip also if you've not been to many you'll be unlikely to be using 100% of your mechanical grip anyhow.

BTW are you in driver training?

As for Tampered days, they seem to be getting more slick as for other competitors, they tend to be paying their own repair bills which always helps concentration.



  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
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