Jump to content
SAU Community

2016 Round 3 - Monday 14th March (labour Day) Hosted By Tampered Motorsport


Recommended Posts

12718248_1283584545001252_90932387159363


Photo credit: speedcafe



This round we will be attending the day run by Tampered Motorsport on the recently resurfaced Winton Motor Raceway



Monday 14th of March (Labour day weekend)



- For anyone interested in attending their first track day here all you need to know : http://www.sau.com.a...y-requirements/



Licence:


You will need a CAMS or AASA licence to compete on the day.


L2S can be obtained via https://www.cams.com.au/ You can purchase a day licence at the track for $20.00 (good idea if this is the only track day you are doing this year)


Other requirements : http://www.sau.com.a...y-requirements/



Location:


Winton Motor Raceway


Fox Street, Winton


https://goo.gl/maps/wWhJVKs4aJv



Pricing:


Entrants: $180.00


Spectators: Free


These days can be a sellout so get your entry in quick.



Entry/Registration


Tampered Motorsport Website.


Please put SAU-VIC in the "sponsor field" so we can identify you on Natsoft.


https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/56a9acce1ab00/web/




Squires Loft Nunawading will be putting on lunch for all SAU VIC members (Comment in this thread if you are attending so we can cater accordingly).



12804658_1283576145002092_14459527015305



12814196_1283609094998797_25854580291215


  • Like 1

During entry it'll ask you if you're a Beginner, Intermediate or Racer, and ask you for your PB time at Winton or Sandown so they have an indication of how fast you are.

They'll use this information to group together based on times (I hope) and not just throw all of us SAU people into one group where nobody will be able to get a clean lap because of varying pace.

AC, can you confirm?

During entry it'll ask you if you're a Beginner, Intermediate or Racer, and ask you for your PB time at Winton or Sandown so they have an indication of how fast you are.

They'll use this information to group together based on times (I hope) and not just throw all of us SAU people into one group where nobody will be able to get a clean lap because of varying pace.

AC, can you confirm?

I know that's how it usually works, but I've had issues with traffic at previous busy tampered events which is really frustrating and dangerous.

Previously they've allowed groups to go in together and the driving/traffic has always been better with a group who has great track etiquette, even with speed differences

I can ask the question, this is our first day with Tampered in a long time so let's see how it goes.

Also Justin does your BMW have an engine swap, stripped out interior or the addition of a turbo or supercharger? (just for the championship groupings)

I can ask the question, this is our first day with Tampered in a long time so let's see how it goes.

Also Justin does your BMW have an engine swap, stripped out interior or the addition of a turbo or supercharger? (just for the championship groupings)

No worries, I'll have a think about it and let you know of I enter :)

It's a stock n/a 2.5 and I run with full interior for our events, on Hankook RS3s :)

Does tagging Racer=being put in a group with idiots who think it's door to door racing, hold you up or dive down the inside using my wing as a corning assistant?

Kind of concur with being in an SAU group, even if there is a speed difference(to a point), we know about it, faster ones out first, slower at back and we know who is experienced and likely to be looking etc.

BTW, where are we marking SAUVic, not asked me for a Club yet, just sponsorship.

  • Like 1

Discussions going on in the background about an SAUVIC group. There negatives to this of course, with vast lap time difference. However most of us know what times we do, so as long as we exit the pit in that order there shouldnt be any issues.

Plus its not all about times, it's fun battle on track as well.

  • Like 2

Let's see if the track is quicker!

From chatting to friends that have already raced there they said the racing line is nice and grippy so you are quicker but get off that line and it will spit you off the track very easily..

Sounds like you will all have an interesting day... :)

From chatting to friends that have already raced there they said the racing line is nice and grippy so you are quicker but get off that line and it will spit you off the track very easily..

Sounds like you will all have an interesting day... :)

As someone who has never done Winton before (or only done a track day in a completely different car in completely different track and different country) this is a worry lol.

Are Tampered days really that bad? Have heard nothing but "lol, I don't go to tampered days" from literally 100% of people that it's come up with in conversation.

Don't worry probably more like 50 shades of grip also if you've not been to many you'll be unlikely to be using 100% of your mechanical grip anyhow.

BTW are you in driver training?

As for Tampered days, they seem to be getting more slick as for other competitors, they tend to be paying their own repair bills which always helps concentration.



  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...